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Old 21-08-06, 10:08   #51
threeltr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MADNESS
i removed my AT2 computer and the car starts fine with the purple wires briged study the wire diagram in the manual their maybe something else done to ur wireing mine was pritty much all GMH stickered wires

allso anyone know any tricks to remove the filler bolt in the side of the manual cause i got 2 things to finsh this dam conversion and i cant remove the bolt to fill up the trans fluid
I removed the AT2 computer which in itself is easy, only a couple of screws.
The rest of the wiring thats left behind thats what im trying to remove now.
im having trouble with it as it appears to be wired into everything. did u remove the wiring or just the computer and if you did is there any pointers you can give me
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Old 22-08-06, 21:36   #52
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what is the at2 computer? what does it do?

i thought that if the two connectors on the box were connected and the twp purple wires were joined, evrything works reversing lights and all?

is this not the case?
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Old 06-09-06, 12:07   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phantom_t
what is the at2 computer? what does it do?

i thought that if the two connectors on the box were connected and the twp purple wires were joined, evrything works reversing lights and all?

is this not the case?
The at2 is the automatic trans computer, i did the the swap a few years back and didnt remove the computer at all. I did bridge the wires tho and it worked fine. im just removing everythnig that i dont use or isnt needed on the car anymore.
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Old 27-10-06, 17:44   #54
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ne thoughts on the difference between runnin the auto comp and a manual comp?
done the conversion (was fun)
but yeh now it feels like im still drivin an auto but changin my own gears
as opposed to drivin a manual n feelin the boot when she comes on boost.
thinkin bout goin an aftermarket ems but was jus wanted to kno if anyone had similiar problems/ any ideas.
also with the spigot bush, tried the hydraulic method with no luck
but got a breaker bar on the crank and a monkey wrench on the spigot and whollah! - strait out
cheers peepz
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Old 31-10-06, 19:38   #55
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ive just finished my conversion this thread was a big help.

Just a few things the peddle box isnt hard like everone says once youve droped the steering colum drop the top of the peddle box and pull it out.

oh and to make it easyer for you guys doing this get the manual gearbox loom so all you have to do is plug the loom in and all your lights work.
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Old 26-11-06, 22:08   #56
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Great info dj mitzi, quick question. Going from auto to manual is all good but has anyone had any experience with going from manual to auto? I will be needing to fit a standard turbo auto into a turbo manual that has a supra 5 speed in it this weekend coming. Just curious if all the wiring is going to be there. I know the wiring for the At2 is there but just the other things like setting up the neutral start relay ect: Any body know if the wiring looms are the same for manual and auto regardless of what it came out with?
Cheers boys.
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Old 03-05-07, 21:43   #57
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g'day,

got my new motor the other day and it was an auto so today i changed all the gear over to manual stuff.

the spigot bearing it got out in literaly about 2 seconds, there is a special tool you can buy for $60 from coventries ( i have a m8 who works there so one just disapiered oneday) you screw it into the spigot bearing and pump it full of grease and the bearing slides straight out!

for the clutch aligning tool, if you have a stuffed mf5 oxy axe or angle grind off the input shaft and use that...only if u have a stuffed one - for the one you are useing
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Old 31-05-07, 19:01   #58
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Firstly this is the best Mod you can do to an N/A vl other than turbo conversion, If you ever get the chance to drive a manual vl, dont pass it up :P

Ok I did this conversion on the weekend, fairly easy just some bellhousing bolts can be bit of a mission and peddle box can take some time,

The clutch I lined up with out a tool using a half inch socket extension and bit of garden hose over it, and basicly just by eye

Removing auto spigot bush was pretty easy using the grease method, I found 3/8 extension and 14mm was perfect fit, only took 5 mins to get it out

make sure you unbolt your exhaust at the cat or the engine wont be able to tilt and can make it impossible to get the box in

I pulled the auto and everything in involved with that on a saturday, then had the manual in running by sunday 5pm, So it isnt that hard, but I admit I am a mechanic and I was using air tools :P

Also the flywheel bolts make sure you use the M/T bolts cause there is a fairly big difference between them, And make sure you put some locktight on them, and do them up to 150 newtons if you can get a hold of a torque wrench

Anyways Hope that helps people out in the future also great write up in the first post

Last edited by Wilko16; 31-05-07 at 19:04.
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Old 01-06-07, 03:06   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wilko16
Firstly this is the best Mod you can do to an N/A vl other than turbo conversion, If you ever get the chance to drive a manual vl, dont pass it up :P
Agreed! My berlina was converted to manual, only other mods are 2.5" cat back exhaust and advance timing. Its just as quick as my old Auto Calais which had exhaust, extractors, advanced timing and 3.9 diff gears
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Old 01-06-07, 18:47   #60
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for those of u asking about the auto and manual NA computers, i have an auto one in my manual converted calais and has run fine since it went in.

Had the manual one in there for 2 weeks i think then it **** itself and wouldnt crank so the auto one went back in and dont think theres really that much difference
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Old 18-10-07, 07:06   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrclean86
When installing a manual trans in a VL, lots of tech articles say join the purple wires beside the fuse box. This bypasses the “Park” lockout. If you haven’t got the rest of the manual loom, this means that the reversing lights and the neutral lockout will not work.

Here is another way.

Buy 2 good quality (eg Narva) 2 position joiners.

Disconnect the loom that connects the position selector switch on the auto trans to the plug on the firewall, near the master cylinder. Looking at the end of the plug you have just removed, numbering starts at top left corner (with plug catch upwards). If you have the repair manual, numbering is the same as in the book.
catch on top
1 8 7 6
2 3 4 5

Cut the position selector off the auto wiring loom and throw it away. There are 8 wires to cut.

1. find red/black wire 1 and solder the cut end (where you cut the auto selector off ) onto one of the new joiners. BEFORE you solder it up, splice another wire with the red one so you have a join going from the joiner (make the splice out of red wire for simplicity – make sure it is at least 30cm long)
2. find the blue/black wire 3 and solder it onto the other side of the same joiner.
3. find the black/white wire 2 and splice it onto the extended red wire from step 1 above
4. solder this spliced wire onto one side of the OTHER joiner
5. splice the red wire 5 with the black wire 4 and splice a black wire about 30cm onto this wire
6. solder this extended black wire to the other side of the joiner

Put heat shrink around all the joints to protect them

Now you should have 2 joiners with wires 5 connected and 3 spare wires. Tape up these 3 spare wires and wrap the loom in electrical tape.

At this stage, you have circuits for the reversing lights, neutral lockout circuit and the “Park” bypass circuit.

Now, to connect to the gearbox, cut the connectors off the neutral switch and the reverse light switch. Note – if you remove them, the switches are not interchangeable. Solder the other ends of the joiners onto these 2 switches. Then connect the Neutral switch to the extended red and black wires using the joiner. Connect the Reversing switch to the other joiner.

Now what you should have is a fully connected loom which allows the reversing lights to come on when the reverse is selected, the neutral lockout such that the car can only be cranked over in neutral and the park bypass to allow the car to be cranked and started.

Sounds complicated but it is really very simple with some basic skill with a soldering iron.

Steve.


my father and i followed this to every point and finally i put it in the car last night and my reverse lights stayed on in every gear and my car wouldnt even turn over? anyone else have this problem? does anyone kno how i could fix it? also the auto starer i had in my car had a connector on it and the manual one doesn't? do i need to wire up the connector to my manual starter?


Cheers Nick
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Old 18-10-07, 10:35   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muggle
guys i have everything thing to do the conversion the only query ihave is regarding the starter motor ,my car is a vl calais turbo and is auto
,can the turbo starter be used in this conversion or do i need a non turbo starter,the box is a mf5, please help as i plan to do this tommorow
thanks glenn
The turbo auto starter motor can be used with the mf5 box, i did the same thing as u want to do a while ago nd the turbo started cranks much faster, u will hav no probs using it!!
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Old 21-10-07, 09:51   #63
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anyone? does anyone know how i can fix this? any help would be appreciated.

Cheers Nick
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Old 21-10-07, 20:44   #64
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mate just go to the park, neutral selector relay near the RH headlight 9it's on the side of the firewall next to another relay) and join the purple wire together, i got a auto comp, runnning manual got no probs.
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Old 21-10-07, 21:02   #65
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yeah. i'll try that tomoz night. but.. my auto starter has a connector plug hanging off it and the manual one dosent? whats the go there? id get pics up but dunno how
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Old 05-11-07, 20:43   #66
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Hey guys, digging up an old tech article.....

I finally converted my VL Berlina to manual, no probs. Used the auto starter motor (no probs), manual ECU, left the auto spigot in, used a manual gearbox loom (white & yellow plug), left the AT2 computer/AT diagnosis computers in, and I bridged the wires (light green & pink [I think; as per Street Commodores walkthrough] ) on the large grey plug on the firewall next to the brake booster. So those who are wondering:
-auto starter motor runs an MF5 (N/A) box
-auto spigot can stay
-purple wires on the relay near the battery are not the only way to bypass the neutral switch

Anyway, now my cruise control doesn't work. I get the orange light, but it won't engage (green light). I tried bridging a variety of wires on the firewall that were plugged into the auto box (in particular the Torque Converter Clutch Soleniod [no. 50 according to Gregorys wiring diagram on page 228/229], which ties in with the speed signal ). All to no avail. I also unplugged the Throttle Position Sensor (does not affect the car when running a manual transmission) and Throttle Pedal Switch (under the dash, and has no effect in a manual).

I have checked that the cruise module is plugged into the brake switch, and that the vacuum switch is pushed in when the pedal isn't depressed.

Does anyone know if a wiring change needs to be made, or has had the same problem? Possibly the wiring change I have made makes the car believe it is always in neutral (and therefore preventing cruise to be allowed to engage)? Niche, I'm looking at you.

Last edited by 5spdvl; 12-02-08 at 16:47.
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Old 05-11-07, 20:49   #67
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Apparantly its a bad idea to leave the auto spigot in.

Supposedly the shaft vibrates or something, and damages the gearbox
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Old 05-11-07, 20:51   #68
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Oh well, it'd be a good excuse to splurge on an R33 item. Unless someone can show me a picture comparing them and the manual one is shorter, I'm not going to worry about it.

Any ideas on the cruise?
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Old 05-11-07, 21:36   #69
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The manual one sits in further, whereas the auto one sits flush.
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Old 05-11-07, 21:52   #70
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Oh well, I'll cross that bridge when it crumbles and requires attention.

BUT any ideas on the cruise? My mind says that there is supposed to be some sort of feedback from one of the switches/sensors on the auto trans that its no longer getting (that can be solved by bridging wires). All I can see is the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, Downshift Solenoid, Overdrive Cancel Solenoid having anything to do with the cruise circuit (via the speed sensor). All to no avail.
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Old 05-11-07, 21:57   #71
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Cant help you mate.

I did the conversion on a berlina without cruise.
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Old 05-11-07, 22:47   #72
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Hmm....there are four wires attatched to the speed sensor. One is light green & white, which goes to the transmission control unit (AT2). By severing the auto trans plugs, the AT2 computer is no longer getting its feedback in relation to that wire. But I can't tell what the wire comes OUT as from the
AT2 (if that makes sense).
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Old 06-11-07, 14:04   #73
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Wouldn't have anything to do with the missing extra switch on the clutch pedal? If the circuit is in someway incomplete, which it would be if it's missing a swtich, then it wont work
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Old 06-11-07, 18:45   #74
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As far as I can work out, manual VLs with cruise have a clutch switch instead of a brake switch. And when the circuit is completed (clutch depressed), cruise turns off. So, if it was missing, it'd still function - just not turn off.

Last edited by 5spdvl; 12-02-08 at 16:49.
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Old 07-11-07, 08:15   #75
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I would of thought there'd be two switches - one on the brake as well as one on the clutch like any other conventional manual transmission cruise control set up
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