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Old 19-02-03, 00:50   #26
turboluke
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yes you have to get the oil and water galleries drilled and tapped into the block which i would imagine would involve reducing motor to a bare block which would defeat the purpose of converting it
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Old 19-02-03, 04:40   #27
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oh really, its not that difficult

there are other ways to get an oil and water feed than straight from the galleries.....

plenty of non factory turbo cars are converted you know....
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Old 19-02-03, 16:26   #28
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Originally Posted by VLExec88
Does anyone have part numbers, or places off supply where I could find the little banjo bolts needed to secure the oil lines from a T3 to the engine block? Also water lines + T piece needed for water lines?
Much appreciated - Ozperformance forums rock btw!
heres a few part numbers , i got em from holden direct

gm - 1519159s00 - that is the little oil return connector (screws into bottom of block)

gm - 16432v5300 - that is the water gallery(in block) banjo bolt

gm - 1643217f00 - that is the oil banjo bolt


i think these are the correct references.
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Old 09-04-03, 09:09   #29
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COSTS?????
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Old 09-04-03, 11:39   #30
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The costs can very it depends on from who and where you get your parts from and how complete you actually want to make the conversion.
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Old 13-04-03, 07:17   #31
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beleive it or not but the oil return connector is about $50 from holden , im sure u could get one from a hoses and fittings kind of shop

the banjo bolts are about $7 each tops
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Old 02-05-03, 20:36   #32
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Carcrazy site will be back, might team up with OVL087 and make up a detailed step by step list and some pics too, we have both done proper build ups.
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Old 02-05-03, 22:13   #33
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i spose i could lend a hand

has a certain cd been sent to mark yet?

lost in the mail about 6 months ago was it hehehehe
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Old 02-05-03, 22:48   #34
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we have both done proper build ups
thats debateable
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Old 07-05-03, 19:33   #35
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turbo conversion

me like a lot of poeple are doing this conversion now i have been doing it slowly for while now have been taking a few pics along the way 2 so if anyone wants some advice pm me im happy to pass on what i know and if ya want any pics fell free to ask




as for a documented conversion there used to be a really good one its gone now and i cant remember the addres or who did it ops: but i herd sin took it over but u know how rumors are

anyways i took a print out of the site so i have it and its full of good info so like i said any questions just ask
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Old 08-05-03, 23:34   #36
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do you need to put the detonation sensor?? i thought you could go with out?? is it on sII N/A motors?

Also i thought you could use N/A injectors and an N/A ECU if you don't lift the boost above 9ish?

Also everyone's forgetting about Gaskets...
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Old 08-05-03, 23:43   #37
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i think wihtout the detonation sensor the turbo ecu would retartd the timeing becouse it is getting no signal from it as far as i know in australia it only came out on turbos but in nz it was more wide spread and was on some atmo motors

as for running the n/a computer and injextors i have been told that the flow on the n/a computer is not good enuf for a turbo and detonation will most likely happen

i could be wrong but this is what i have read and been told bay a few people
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Old 12-05-03, 20:48   #38
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i didnt put the det sensor in , i have one though.

i wouldnt suggest using n/a gear at all.
especially at 9 pound

and as for gaskets , genuine nissan gaskets for everything not just the head gasket.
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Old 14-05-03, 00:44   #39
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Im doing the conversion aswell..

::hrthound:: the injectors and the ECU will work seficiantly with the turbo..

the injectors have no difference between them as i had my injectors rebuild by a pro, he said there is no diference in pressure of type or injecting patern.. and told me that my injectors are ready for a turbo..

as for the ECU it will be ok aslong as ur not runing it at 13/15 pound +

And jst a qustion.. the N/A plenime. will it have any air leaks coming out of it anywere at 10 / 7 pound ???
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Old 14-05-03, 08:48   #40
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I dont know about the injector & ECU thing im sure someone more knowledgable will be able say more about that, myself i put VLT ECU & injectors in straight away, i wouldnt have done the conversion without them.
With the N/A plenuum ive been using it from the start also and havent experienced any problems with it either, it would be no different leak wise to a VLT plenuum, just make sure all your hoses, gaskets, fittings and connections are in good shape or brand new.
Also i dont think the ECU will retard or alter the timing if the knock sensor isnt there, i could be wrong.
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Old 14-05-03, 09:32   #41
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knock sensor

i could be wrong too bus i would have thought that the ecu would receve a signal from thw knock sensor and asume it is faulty and retard the timeing as a fail safe and read a error code of 34


"the eccs control unit determines the detionation sensor faulty when one of the following applys:

1 DETONATION SENSOR IS OPEN CIRCUITED
2 detonation sensor is shorted to earth
3 abnormal noise "


but again i could be wrong

as for the injectors being the same on atmo i have been told by a few injection shops that turbos have a bigger flow rate me personaly i think its worth paying a little extra just be safe
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Old 14-05-03, 13:09   #42
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So if you use a N/A computer it doesn't matter if you don't have the knock sensor?

"OVL087" do you get any-problems without the det sensor? and do you have the Turbo ECU? or a NA ECU?
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Old 14-05-03, 20:16   #43
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I havent hooked up my knock sensor yet, i always get the fault code when i do a codes check, wether the computer sets the timing to its own fail safe setting ***** knows.
I could see the reasoning if it did but i hope it doesnt.
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Old 21-05-03, 09:43   #44
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Hey guys,
I have considered this subject for some time... I was looking for a VLT here in perth, but the demand and prices over here are crazy... so I have landed my self a SICK looking auto VL, and decided to drop an RB25DET in it. Sounds a little easier doesn't it...and cheaper? I rang up an import place yesterday, and they were going to give me an RB20DET for 2200....and that is apparently expensive!. So if you add it up, 2- 3k for a sweet VL.. 2500 for an engine (that is better than an RB30...apparently), around maximum of 1k for a n exhaust and up to 1k for fitting (have to admit, my friend is a mechanic, but I still have to pay to use his workshop) This all adds up to aroun 7500. There are a few other factors involved tho, so it would probably work out a little more expensive (V8 Diff and front disc replacement etc)
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Old 24-06-03, 12:25   #45
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True apparently Series 1 motors were missing a few key holes, which was later corrected on the Series 2 engine.

Are there any extras you might need that aren't in that list for a series 1 motor?
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Old 01-07-03, 23:37   #46
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Damn Series 1 motors! :x
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Old 02-07-03, 18:50   #47
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BRAKES?

hwat brakes would you recomend? would it be good enough to keep the rear drums and get something like vt twin piston brakes up front?

if not how much would it cost to upgrade to VLT brakes ie. 4 wheel discs.
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Old 04-07-03, 00:40   #48
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Hi im doing a turbo conversion on a SII Auto Exec.

Brakes: 90% of braking is done in the front so upgrade the front at least. Drums pull up as good as disks in a one off situation they just dont cool off as quick. If you had VT twin spots up front, NA drums rear, and had to slow the 150+KW down after accelerating hard on the freeway you wouldnt have any trouble. The only thing is with drums you get that terrible VL spongey pedal feel. I'll tell you one thing though stock NA Front disc brake system is the exact same as on a sigma. The sigma is even too overpowered for that system let alone a modified VL turbo.

As for NA Auto: Turboluke, have you seen an NA auto tranny hold up with a turbo conversion? How long would you give it with a cooler?

I have most parts ready for the actual turbo conversion but only have an auto NA gearbox. Im hoping my DBA x-drilled slotted and NA auto will withstand the pain till i can afford a decent box and brakes.

What about 3rd party property insurance?????? Ten bucks says its void the minute you bolt on a turbo manifold. Does anyone know anyway around this???
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Old 11-07-03, 04:02   #49
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for how easy it is.. its probably worth putting at least a 25 spline disk rear end in so that ur car is compliant. vlt's had 4 wheel disks so its probably a good idea to put some on when converting.. while ur at it, get some vlt front rotors and callipers and a double diaphram booster and 1" master cly and then ur braking package is complete.

drums are ****, drums look ****, drums dont work very well after a hard stop. dont use ya ****ty drums

asw for injectors and ecu... apparently the vlt ecu injects fuel in stages as opposed to the na which just goes in 2 banks i think..

*** ask somwone like andy... !!
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Old 11-07-03, 13:11   #50
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yeh its called semi sequential operation
the ecu fires injectors in 2 banks of 3 and im pretty sure it does it under full load only
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