Calais Turbo

1gz-vlc · 27-10-13, 19:02

Alright guys,
I recently removed the windscreen from my calais and had great success with how i did it so i figured I'd post for others like me that would rather spend 200 knicker on something other then a new screen.

all up it took me the best part of a days work and i did it by myself but would obviously be far quicker if you had a minion.

So the tools i used or tool was old faithfull leatherman or combination pocket tool, and as sharp as the flat blade is it turned out to be the oddly shaped half serated blade that did the best at removing the old Sika.

Anyway on with the steps.

Step 1.

Remove the A pillar plastic strips and the upper and lower plastic seal cover type things so all you have is the screen sitting on Sika.

Step 2.
Take your semi serated knife and carefully start doing long strokes over the sika at the top and bottom of the screen being carefull that once you got past the sika you aren't cutting into the metal of the body.
Once you have gotten past the sika then it should start lifting out revealing the screens edge once you have that gently insert the blade in under the glass making sure you dont cut any of the pillar material.
Now if your screen is sealed like mine your gunna get the ****s with the bottom of the screen cause mine had loads of thick sika and was a right PIA to get through so what i did was from the inside was gently push the tip of the blade through to the outside and repeat that for the whole length of the screen.

Step 3.
repeat above steps and you will be able to see and feel the screen separating from all the sika and if you lift it gently in sections you will be able to see where the sika is still hanging on once all sections have let go gently with your arms spread from the outside top lift the screen and remove from car.

Oh BTW make sure you lay out something for the screen to lay on when you get it out, I used an old car cover bunched up on a box as a temporary.

Good luck guys and just remember patience is what will get the ******* out in one piece.

Cheers
Dave

fleas · 29-10-13, 18:03

Cheers for the heads up

chief355 · 29-10-13, 18:18

Piano wire held with vice grips on each side. Make access hole through sealant, insert wire and attach vice grips either side. Then just saw away. I did the above but it does take forever.

MUS · 29-10-13, 18:25

I did the same thing with a blade and flat head screw driver for the rear window. Didn't take me too long, I'd say less then half hour.

rusty577 · 29-10-13, 22:36

I need to take my rear screen out and dont want to brake it. I thought it was just a rubber seal type not urethaned in?? Anyone got any tips

gardna · 30-10-13, 08:18

lie down on the back seat put both feet on the screen spread evenly, and steadily push until it pops out. works everytime.

MUS · 30-10-13, 09:46

Quote:

Originally Posted by rusty577

I need to take my rear screen out and dont want to brake it. I thought it was just a rubber seal type not urethaned in?? Anyone got any tips

Mine was full of urethane.

xAsh- · 30-10-13, 14:56

Depends if its been out before and who puts it back in

FLY-03L · 30-10-13, 16:35

From factory the rear isnt glued in.

I used piano wire when i took my front windscreen out... heat one end up with a lighter so it slides in easily.
Careful you dont scratch the interior...
Go all the way around get a mate or a family member if you dont have any mates to help you lift it out and youll be sweet.

BigM22 · 30-10-13, 18:46

Can someone put a pic up of the specific holes you need to bog when doing the universal seal upgrade

FLY-03L · 30-10-13, 18:54

The top ones mate on the left and right of the windscreen, you can see one in my photo

3lturbo · 30-10-13, 19:00

It's the one that the side windscreen mouldings fit into. If you look at Fly's pic above you can see one of them.

Good thread as well by the way.

BigM22 · 30-10-13, 19:55

Oh righto, easier than I thought
Thanks guys

rusty577 · 31-10-13, 07:19

I donno about those vt molding upgrades. Thanks for the tips on the rear screen guys. Might sit it out in the sun to loosen up the rubber. Might help a little.

BigM22 · 31-10-13, 08:51

Why? They work a lot better than the standard seal over time
If its from an originality perspective I can understand that

SELO XST 045 · 31-10-13, 19:14

will ill be doing the vt seal. with the vl side plastic glued on to make it look original .

best of both worlds

xAsh- · 31-10-13, 20:24

^Easier said than done, the VT seal is alot fatter where the VL seal is skinny and thin.

the747 · 01-11-13, 07:40

ive got a vt seal, WAY better it looks a lot neater and the panel beater said the only way the rust wont return is to put a vt seal in, best decision ive made

oh and you cant put you OG plastic back over....one it wont fit two it'll loook terrible!

---------- Post added 01-11-13 at 08:41 ----------

pardont the messy bonnet vents, i was waxing the car and foggot to clean the vents lol

fleas · 01-11-13, 19:09

Quote:

Originally Posted by gardna

lie down on the back seat put both feet on the screen spread evenly, and steadily push until it pops out. works everytime.

It's the front one mate, and yeah the rear's much easier to take out.

Selo if you get away with it chuck on a pic. I wanna see the result

27-10-13, 19:02	#1
1gz-vlc Player Join Date: 25-07-12 Location: NSW, Shellharbour Car: Trader Rating: (0)	How To: Remove that bloody vl windscreen without destroying it Alright guys, I recently removed the windscreen from my calais and had great success with how i did it so i figured I'd post for others like me that would rather spend 200 knicker on something other then a new screen. all up it took me the best part of a days work and i did it by myself but would obviously be far quicker if you had a minion. So the tools i used or tool was old faithfull leatherman or combination pocket tool, and as sharp as the flat blade is it turned out to be the oddly shaped half serated blade that did the best at removing the old Sika. Anyway on with the steps. Step 1. Remove the A pillar plastic strips and the upper and lower plastic seal cover type things so all you have is the screen sitting on Sika. Step 2. Take your semi serated knife and carefully start doing long strokes over the sika at the top and bottom of the screen being carefull that once you got past the sika you aren't cutting into the metal of the body. Once you have gotten past the sika then it should start lifting out revealing the screens edge once you have that gently insert the blade in under the glass making sure you dont cut any of the pillar material. Now if your screen is sealed like mine your gunna get the **s with the bottom of the screen cause mine had loads of thick sika and was a right PIA to get through so what i did was from the inside was gently push the tip of the blade through to the outside and repeat that for the whole length of the screen. Step 3. repeat above steps and you will be able to see and feel the screen separating from all the sika and if you lift it gently in sections you will be able to see where the sika is still hanging on once all sections have let go gently with your arms spread from the outside top lift the screen and remove from car. Oh BTW make sure you lay out something for the screen to lay on when you get it out, I used an old car cover bunched up on a box as a temporary. Good luck guys and just remember patience is what will get the ***** out in one piece. Cheers Dave

29-10-13, 18:03	#2
fleas COLONY SAVAGE Join Date: 18-05-05 Location: NSW, Wollongong Car: 1988 Executive; 1987 Executive Trader Rating: (27)	Cheers for the heads up __________________ A lie is a lie even if everyone believes it; the truth is the truth even if no one believes it

29-10-13, 18:25	#4
MUS Chunky but funky Join Date: 11-02-07 Location: Melbourne, North Side Car: VLCT Trader Rating: (6)	I did the same thing with a blade and flat head screw driver for the rear window. Didn't take me too long, I'd say less then half hour. .

29-10-13, 22:36	#5
rusty577 Player Join Date: 02-05-06 Location: QLD, Sunshine Coast Car: 300+ VL Turbo 5 Speed, Worked 63 EH Special, XJ Jeep Trader Rating: (4)	I need to take my rear screen out and dont want to brake it. I thought it was just a rubber seal type not urethaned in?? Anyone got any tips __________________ CHAPMAN DYNO TUNING PH: 5442 5066

30-10-13, 14:56	#8
xAsh- Official Member Join Date: 12-06-11 Location: NSW, Newcastle Car: SL Turbo, Calais Daily Trader Rating: (4)	Depends if its been out before and who puts it back in __________________ 3D CAD/Production Drawing - PM Sleeper build thread - http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=235527

29-10-13, 18:18	#3
chief355 Player Join Date: 08-11-12 Location: NSW, SYDNEY Car: S2 Calais Turbo Trader Rating: (1)	Piano wire held with vice grips on each side. Make access hole through sealant, insert wire and attach vice grips either side. Then just saw away. I did the above but it does take forever.

30-10-13, 08:18	#6
gardna Gold Members Join Date: 16-01-06 Location: Adelaide, Banksia Park Car: AH astra, Nissan Patrol RB30det, vlct on the way Trader Rating: (1)	lie down on the back seat put both feet on the screen spread evenly, and steadily push until it pops out. works everytime.

30-10-13, 16:35	#9
FLY-03L Official Member Join Date: 14-02-10 Location: NSW, New South Wales Car: 5 Speed VL SL Trader Rating: (6)	From factory the rear isnt glued in. I used piano wire when i took my front windscreen out... heat one end up with a lighter so it slides in easily. Careful you dont scratch the interior... Go all the way around get a mate or a family member if you dont have any mates to help you lift it out and youll be sweet. __________________ '87 SL VL Build Thread

30-10-13, 18:46	#10
BigM22 Booooooooosssssttt! Join Date: 15-08-12 Location: Melbourne, S.E Suburbs Car: 87 Exec, BF Falcon (Daily) Trader Rating: (0)	Can someone put a pic up of the specific holes you need to bog when doing the universal seal upgrade __________________ Holden: Australia's Driving Future.... Erm not for much longer

30-10-13, 18:54	#11
FLY-03L Official Member Join Date: 14-02-10 Location: NSW, New South Wales Car: 5 Speed VL SL Trader Rating: (6)	The top ones mate on the left and right of the windscreen, you can see one in my photo __________________ '87 SL VL Build Thread

30-10-13, 19:00	#12
3lturbo ................. Join Date: 11-11-09 Location: International, . Car: Berlina Turbo Trader Rating: (0)	It's the one that the side windscreen mouldings fit into. If you look at Fly's pic above you can see one of them. Good thread as well by the way.

30-10-13, 19:55	#13
BigM22 Booooooooosssssttt! Join Date: 15-08-12 Location: Melbourne, S.E Suburbs Car: 87 Exec, BF Falcon (Daily) Trader Rating: (0)	Oh righto, easier than I thought Thanks guys __________________ Holden: Australia's Driving Future.... Erm not for much longer

31-10-13, 07:19	#14
rusty577 Player Join Date: 02-05-06 Location: QLD, Sunshine Coast Car: 300+ VL Turbo 5 Speed, Worked 63 EH Special, XJ Jeep Trader Rating: (4)	I donno about those vt molding upgrades. Thanks for the tips on the rear screen guys. Might sit it out in the sun to loosen up the rubber. Might help a little. __________________ CHAPMAN DYNO TUNING PH: 5442 5066

31-10-13, 08:51	#15
BigM22 Booooooooosssssttt! Join Date: 15-08-12 Location: Melbourne, S.E Suburbs Car: 87 Exec, BF Falcon (Daily) Trader Rating: (0)	Why? They work a lot better than the standard seal over time If its from an originality perspective I can understand that __________________ Holden: Australia's Driving Future.... Erm not for much longer

31-10-13, 19:14	#16
SELO XST 045 167rwkw @ 10psi Join Date: 02-05-06 Location: VIC, Eastern Suburbs Car: 1987 Holden VL Calais Turbo S2 / 1998 holden vs ute S3, manual 6 Trader Rating: (2)	will ill be doing the vt seal. with the vl side plastic glued on to make it look original . best of both worlds

31-10-13, 20:24	#17
xAsh- Official Member Join Date: 12-06-11 Location: NSW, Newcastle Car: SL Turbo, Calais Daily Trader Rating: (4)	^Easier said than done, the VT seal is alot fatter where the VL seal is skinny and thin. __________________ 3D CAD/Production Drawing - PM Sleeper build thread - http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=235527

01-11-13, 07:40	#18
the747 Player Join Date: 02-09-13 Location: Melbourne, south east suburbs Car: 86 vl calais Trader Rating: (0)	ive got a vt seal, WAY better it looks a lot neater and the panel beater said the only way the rust wont return is to put a vt seal in, best decision ive made oh and you cant put you OG plastic back over....one it wont fit two it'll loook terrible! ---------- Post added 01-11-13 at 08:41 ---------- pardont the messy bonnet vents, i was waxing the car and foggot to clean the vents lol