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Old 16-09-09, 15:58   #51
3ltr VL
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Hey Shaun VL
how long did the conversion take, havnt checked if mine has the lines already in it or not but lets say it does NOT how long do you reckon it will take?
cheers and a good write up
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Old 16-09-09, 16:52   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ltr VL
Hey Shaun VL
how long did the conversion take, havnt checked if mine has the lines already in it or not but lets say it does NOT how long do you reckon it will take?
cheers and a good write up
depends if you can work on it all day straight with all the right tools and and all the right parts and depends if you snap an exhaust stud

but mine took about 5 days taking everything off then putting it back on
but i worked outside on my verge in the rain so it might be quicker for others
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Old 16-09-09, 17:25   #53
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THAT red vl, its got black handles and solid headrests, could be a "series 2"
just check on the passenger side of the motor (exhaust side) and see if its got the bolts in the engine block, they will be needed for the oil feed&drain also water line.

altough, damo, i would recommend you do other things like brakes, master cylinder FIRST and get to konw the car better while on your P's for a little bit before bolting up a turbo
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Old 16-09-09, 23:24   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ltr VL
Hey Shaun VL
how long did the conversion take, havnt checked if mine has the lines already in it or not but lets say it does NOT how long do you reckon it will take?
cheers and a good write up
No worries mate. It depends how well you know your way around cars and what you are changing. If you are just changing the hotside; exhaust manifold, turbo and the injectors, ecu it shouldn't take you more then 6 hours of solid work, if you don't have snapped manifold bolts.

Mine took a couple of days because I had heaps of snapped exhaust manifold bolts and I changed the inlet manifold and plenum, which isn't compulsory. Also had to wait to get new parts and get the plumbing done.

If you're going to do the conversion it's essential to mark where everything goes, and if you're not sure take a picture and PM me. Big mistake I made was, was thinking I could remember it all.

Good luck
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Old 17-09-09, 16:09   #55
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well i know a bit but not enough to do it on my own :L
but the guy who hopefully helps did one to a vl and a lot more then just a turbo conversion
did you buy all of the stuff in your list brand new or second hand?
cheers
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Old 17-09-09, 17:50   #56
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3ltr VL
well i know a bit but not enough to do it on my own :L
but the guy who hopefully helps did one to a vl and a lot more then just a turbo conversion
did you buy all of the stuff in your list brand new or second hand?
cheers
second hand but in good condition. To buy it all brand new would cost a lot, and some things are pretty hard to get brand new.
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Old 17-09-09, 20:47   #57
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yeh true
think ive got all the info needed, ill keep you updated
cheers for the help
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Old 18-09-09, 07:22   #58
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Mine took 4 afternoons after to do... i had to do all my cooler piping, cooler mounts, turbo lines, also 5 snapped studs. Works pretty well doing it that way cos i was driving to into town and back every day so anything i needed i was able to bye after work on the way home... Helps alot to have a spare car to drive while the conversion is takin place...
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Old 05-10-09, 12:31   #59
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hi guys, just about to finish an S1 conversion.......but i have a question

where can i run the water drain to?

i've run the water feed from the water hose, that plumbs into the back of the inlet manifold, but im looking for a hose to run the water drain into.

anyones help will be greatly appreciaited.
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Old 05-10-09, 13:36   #60
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Hey mate,

The water return goes from the turbo to the heater hose on the cold side of the engine shown in one of the pictures on the first page. You have to make a T-piece with two 5/8 bottom and a 3/8 top

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Old 05-10-09, 13:40   #61
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thanks Shaun, is there anywhere else i could perhaps tap into?

thank you
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Old 10-10-09, 15:26   #62
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for those with a series one block that done want to drill and tap into the block, have a look at how the falcon guys turbo there cars. t peice from the oil pressure sender for oil feed and into the top of the sumo for the oil drain. and some get water feed from the thermo stat. even if you have a look at a factory ba xr6 turbo. oil feed is from the oil pressure sender and the water feed is from at the thermostat.
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Old 10-10-09, 15:34   #63
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You have to make sure you're getting the right oil pressure to the turbo as well, especially on bigger turbos.
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Old 10-10-09, 15:54   #64
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thanks wpn_VL.......great info...the car has been finished, but i'll keep it in mind for the future.

thanks again
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Old 10-10-09, 16:10   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpn_vl
for those with a series one block that done want to drill and tap into the block, have a look at how the falcon guys turbo there cars. t peice from the oil pressure sender for oil feed and into the top of the sumo for the oil drain. and some get water feed from the thermo stat. even if you have a look at a factory ba xr6 turbo. oil feed is from the oil pressure sender and the water feed is from at the thermostat.
Has anyone done this on a VL?

5spdVl, wouldn't the pressure at the oil pressure sender be as high as anywhere else in the oil system? How much difference would there be between hotside feed pressure and oil pressure sender pressure?

Certainly not enough to bother a T3?

I'm just having a realistic guess at these btw.....
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Old 11-10-09, 09:26   #66
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Some turbo set ups require oil restricters to limit the pressure going into the turbo I can't remember if the t3 uses one. The point I'm making is that you'll want to use a similar sized hose to the factory one.
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Old 11-10-09, 10:31   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdvl
Some turbo set ups require oil restricters to limit the pressure going into the turbo I can't remember if the t3 uses one. The point I'm making is that you'll want to use a similar sized hose to the factory one.
From my understanding, the oil restrictors purpose is to limit flow by increasing pressure. As pressure = Force/area.

And since Force is constant when area is decreased (trying to push the same amount of fluid through a smaller hole) pressure is increased due to the inverse proportionality relationship.

I think you might be blurring the differences between bigger=less flow turbo setups and BB vs Journal Bearing differences.

This from garretts site:

Garrett ball bearing turbochargers require less oil than journal bearing turbos. Therefore an oil inlet restrictor is recommended if you have oil pressure over about 60 psig. The oil outlet should be plumbed to the oil pan above the oil level (for wet sump systems). Since the oil drain is gravity fed, it is important that the oil outlet points downward, and that the drain tube does not become horizontal or go “uphill” at any point.
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Old 11-10-09, 10:58   #68
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Fuck man, all I'm saying is if you're too cheap to get a series 2 block, or to get it drilled/tapped, then try to keep your lines as close to the stock size as possible.
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Old 11-10-09, 14:42   #69
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chill mate didn't mean to upset you.
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Old 06-11-09, 01:24   #70
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hey mate just a quick question just did a conversion in a vh sl/e put a na rb30 then put the turbo set up on it first day out blew a head gasket only running 7psi wat sort of head gasket u think
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Old 06-11-09, 15:03   #71
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Genuine Nissan HG will be fine.

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chill mate didn't mean to upset you.
All good man, I think I got frustrated that I couldn't get my point across.
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Old 17-11-09, 09:12   #72
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Anyone got pics of what these banjo bolts look like?

And also is an upgraded alternator needed when doing a turbo conversion?
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Old 17-11-09, 22:18   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wpn_vl
for those with a series one block that done want to drill and tap into the block, have a look at how the falcon guys turbo there cars. t peice from the oil pressure sender for oil feed and into the top of the sumo for the oil drain. and some get water feed from the thermo stat. even if you have a look at a factory ba xr6 turbo. oil feed is from the oil pressure sender and the water feed is from at the thermostat.
You are right mate. i did the same to my series 1 motor but it was running only a ebay oil cooled turbo.My oil return goes straight to the sump and i have braided line to the to the oil pressure sender for oil feed.

To KLR-747
No leave alternator per standard.

If in a rush to get it up and running on a t3 turbo, you do not have to run the coolant lines at all just run oil lines on a series 2 block.I ran a t3 with out water lines on the turbo on a na decomp motor for 1 year at 10psi and the turbo never made noises,the temp never went over half way and i just bent the coolant lines over and blocked them off.But to keep your turbo lasting forever try to keep your coolant lines.

Last edited by Wolfevlt; 17-11-09 at 22:58. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 18-11-09, 06:48   #74
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Thanks for that info mate
The standard setup will not be for longer than a year while another motor is getting built in the mean time.
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Old 18-11-09, 16:03   #75
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I would suggest using coolant lines, they aren't hard to connect. Just do it once and do it right.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KLR-747
Anyone got pics of what these banjo bolts look like?

And also is an upgraded alternator needed when doing a turbo conversion?



Just a hollow bolt with a hole through it

Last edited by Shaun_VL; 18-11-09 at 16:08. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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