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Old 02-02-09, 13:12   #1
Shaun_VL
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N/A To Turbo Conversion

Hey guys, just did a N/A To Turbo conversion so thought I may aswell make another tutorial on it. The more there are the better the understanding.

Cost: $1500

Things I Bought:

- Vlt Exhaust Manifold
- T3 Hi-flow Turbo
- Vlt Cross over pipe
- Vlt Inlet Manifold
- Vlt Plenum
- 3” Exhaust
- 3” Dump pipe
- Vlt Injectors
- Vlt auto ecu (3ta)
- Intake pipe


Other:
-12 exhaust manifold studs, nuts, washers, yokes (Nissan)
-2 Banjo bolts: 12mm x 1.25 and 14mm x 1.5 (Nissan)
-Exhaust manifold gasket (Repco $20)
-Inlet Manifold Gasket (Repco)
-Cat to Dump pipe gasket (Repco)
-Oil (I used 10w 30)
-Coolant
-Spark plugs (NGK BCPR7ES)
-T piece - 5/8 bottom with a 3/8 top (Pirtek)

You don’t need all of these items, you can use a lot of n/a gear but I bought my setup as a kit so may as well use it all. Fill up with preferably 98 octane, no less then 95

Procedure

First we removed the exhaust heat shield and the hole exhaust. Unscrewed the oxy sensor, drained the coolant and the oil.

Don’t bother trying to reuse the oil or coolant just buy new stuff.


Expect to find exhaust manifold studs broken when you take the exhaust off. 6 of mine were broken just from wear and tear which was pretty annoying. It took about 2 hours to get them all out using reverse drill bits, 90 degree drill bits and a lot of cutting and drilling oil.

We then unscrewed the nuts in the side of the block for the banjo fittings. Prepared the new gasket by putting gasket glue on both sides and mounted the exhaust manifold and turbo and tightened all the studs using the two nut technique.

Then connected the oil and water lines to the block with the banjo bolts using a copper washers each side of the fitting

NOTE: Any hoses or wire you take off, make sure you mark them clearly to show where they go. It will take time but it will save a lot of trouble later on. It is a essential!

Next step was to take off the plenum. If you aren't changing the plenum, inlet manifold or injectors you can skip this, I personally can't swear by it because I've never tried it but it's been done quite a few time before. I would recommend Vlt injectors though. The bolts come off pretty easy 3 or 4 on top there’s also three hidden ones underneath that you have to take off . Make sure when taking all the lines and hoses you take off you mark so you no where it all goes when you put it back.


The injectors and fuel rail was next. Make sure you mark the injector leads. We took out the n/a injectors and replaced it with the vlt turbo injectors and fuel rail. We used the same o rings from the old injectors and clips so make sure you don’t lose them.


Inlet manifold was the next to come off. Once again came off pretty easy. Once it was off we gave it a clean as you can see in the picture to get all the old gasket glue and crap off it making sure the ports were spotless.

Next steps are pretty easy, put on vlt inlet manifold. Glue the gasket on both sides and the stick the plenum on.

I bought new spark plugs so I changed them over before I mounted the cross over pipe because it gets in the way. After that I then mounted the cross over pipe and intake pipe.

Then the fun began with connecting all the hoses back to where they belong. I also took photos of where everything went to help but the best option was to get a mate over with a vlct and just compare.

Use the T piece and place in in the heater hose for the water return. There are Nissan ones that you can use but they are too hard to track down so I just got a normal t-piece


Then, put the oil and coolant back in. Make sure to bleed the coolant as I have just found out.

Installed the vlt auto computer, located under the passenger side kick panel. Very easy to do just unplug the old one and plug in the new one.

Last step was to mount the new exhaust replacing the old cat gasket.

**Make sure you do the following after the conversion:

- After about 50-100km of driving tighten up the exhaust manifold studs
- Keep an eye on your coolant level and temperature
- Adjust timing so it doesn’t ping

***If anyone needs pictures or help with where hoses and wiring goes let me know and I will be more then happy to go take a picture for you. The most confusing thing is finding where they all go if you have never done it before***

I will get a few more pics up soon, this is just a start to this thread and i probably missed a few things

If I have forgotten anything please let me know, if anyone has any questions they are welcome to PM or reply.

This is just my version of a high comp turbo conversion so use it as a guideline, not fact as I will not take responsibility for any damages.


HOSES + WIRING
If you want to know where certain hoses or wiring goes to and from let me know and I will post you pictures

OIL + WATER LINES FROM TURBO



INTAKE PIPE HOSES

Runs from the intake pipe. The one circled in blue is connected further down the bottom of the intake pipe. They both run into the cross over pipes hose connectors on the side. (if you have a intercooler just run a straight hose to where its meant to be.

Then the hose circled in red runs down to the charcoal cannister through another hose (i think thats what it is called) and the blue run to the top of the rocker cover

Last edited by Shaun_VL; 06-04-09 at 10:48.
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Old 14-02-09, 16:10   #2
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good ****!!!
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Old 14-02-09, 16:20   #3
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Excellent thread. It includes where those dull green lines attached to the crossover pipe connect to, which is one of the hardest things to find out.
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Old 05-04-09, 03:37   #4
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just about to do convesion
do u rekcon i should use my turbo inlet manifold ive got it all togeather with injectors on.
is it easyer to put just injetors on na inlet manifold
.
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Old 05-04-09, 18:59   #5
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can anyone put up how to hook up the oil lines on a series one block without having to drill them?
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Old 05-04-09, 22:53   #6
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The holes aren't threaded in a series one block.

You MUST drill them. You MUST tap them.
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Old 05-04-09, 23:38   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canb_vl06
can anyone put up how to hook up the oil lines on a series one block without having to drill them?

lolol i heard if you stare at the point you want a hole, it will melt through, no drill needed

lol there are no holes even there in a series one block lol, as 5spdvl said, your gonna have to manually drill and tap them.
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Old 06-04-09, 10:44   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by group3t
just about to do convesion
do u rekcon i should use my turbo inlet manifold ive got it all togeather with injectors on.
is it easyer to put just injetors on na inlet manifold
Some people say just use the n/a inlet manifold because it saves time and effort and could "possibly flow better". I myself used a turbo one simply because I had one so I thought I may aswell put it on. If the injectors are on the fuel rail already that are bolted to the turbo manifold you may aswell use that. Or you you could take the fuel rail off, use the n/a manifold and put the other fuel rail in. Bit of a tight fit trying to get it out though. I would just change the manifold and chuck new gaskets in there.

Quote:
Originally Posted by canb_vl06
can anyone put up how to hook up the oil lines on a series one block without having to drill them?
Unfortunately you have to drill them. There is a thread on this somewhere. The only alternative is to get a series 2 block. I do not think you can pick up a oil feed from somewhere else and to be honest I wouldn't want to risk trying.

Last edited by Shaun_VL; 06-04-09 at 10:46. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 06-04-09, 20:55   #9
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Last edited by group3t; 08-03-12 at 16:04. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 07-04-09, 00:26   #10
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Sorry mate could you explain that a bit better I can't really understand what you are asking.

You leave the turbo bolted on to the exhaust manifold, but remove the dump pipe. If you can do it with the dump pipe on then by all means do so but I had to remove mine. Make sure all your bolts and nuts are tight when putting it back on including oil and water lines because it can be very difficult to adjust them once the exhaust manifold is mounted.

And also get oil + water lines drilled and tapped first.

I hope that was what you were asking.

Last edited by Shaun_VL; 07-04-09 at 00:32.
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Old 07-04-09, 09:43   #11
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i recently threw a turbo on an n/a and found that the exhaust had been done on it and the cat back didnt line up with the dump pipe, left the turbo,dump,manifold as one piece with all the lines fitted to turbo ready to go, whole job took about 3-4 hours to get everything off the old engine and bolt the new stuff up, the flange being out was the only problem i came across
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Old 07-04-09, 10:06   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun_VL
Sorry mate could you explain that a bit better I can't really understand what you are asking.

You leave the turbo bolted on to the exhaust manifold, but remove the dump pipe. If you can do it with the dump pipe on then by all means do so but I had to remove mine. Make sure all your bolts and nuts are tight when putting it back on including oil and water lines because it can be very difficult to adjust them once the exhaust manifold is mounted.

And also get oil + water lines drilled and tapped first.

I hope that was what you were asking.
ive got the holes already.
ive taken em off and oil came out

diu mean make sure the oil water lines are on the turbo first
before i bolt up the manifold with turbo and dump

i think that was better?
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Old 07-04-09, 10:37   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by group3t
ive got the holes already.
ive taken em off and oil came out

diu mean make sure the oil water lines are on the turbo first
before i bolt up the manifold with turbo and dump

i think that was better?
I got confused with the other post thinking you didn't have a s2 block. But yes connect the oil and water lines to the turbo first before mounting the exhaust manifold. Make sure you use banjo bolts to bolt in the water and oil lines in to the block in the correct places.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fresh_VL
i recently threw a turbo on an n/a and found that the exhaust had been done on it and the cat back didnt line up with the dump pipe, left the turbo,dump,manifold as one piece with all the lines fitted to turbo ready to go, whole job took about 3-4 hours to get everything off the old engine and bolt the new stuff up, the flange being out was the only problem i came across
Yeah that's a bit unlucky. Fortunately for me everything seemed to line up perfect. 3-4 hours sounds about right for mounting the exhaust manifold, turbo and dump. Mine took a bit longer because I had 6 manifold studs snapped which took about 2-3 hours to get out.

For the whole conversion, since I used vlt inlet manifolds it took a bit longer, and along with that came new gaskets, more bolts and a lot of plumbing.

How does the car run now anyways?

Last edited by Shaun_VL; 07-04-09 at 10:42. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 07-04-09, 10:50   #14
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what kind of turbo manifold gasket did u use
i got told to get nissan
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Old 07-04-09, 10:54   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by group3t
what kind of turbo manifold gasket did u use
i got told to get nissan
For the actual turbo or the exhaust manifold? For the exhaust manifold I just used a repco gasket. All pretty much the same in my eyes.
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Old 09-04-09, 12:18   #16
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yea but cant u tap into the oil pressure sender ??? thats wat ive heard but i dont kno for sure
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Old 09-04-09, 14:38   #17
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slapped the turbo on a ****ter i got here, just the manifold and didnt bother with injectors or computer, running the rest of the na gear she boosts great runs smooth even with the small exhaust leak it's quiet as a mouse, loves 2 kick 2 wheels for some reason and doesnt get too hot unless doin skids (in private), thinkin of doin injectors but will most likely just keep it stock as a rock and na running gear, 7psi is fine for this girl
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Old 15-04-09, 19:12   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fresh_VL
slapped the turbo on a ****ter i got here, just the manifold and didnt bother with injectors or computer, running the rest of the na gear she boosts great runs smooth even with the small exhaust leak it's quiet as a mouse, loves 2 kick 2 wheels for some reason and doesnt get too hot unless doin skids (in private), thinkin of doin injectors but will most likely just keep it stock as a rock and na running gear, 7psi is fine for this girl
Sounds good mate I would go the injectors and ecu to be safe but that's just my opinion. I'm sure soon enough you will want bigger and better
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Old 16-04-09, 10:57   #19
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hey man good read

quick (probably silly) question: my vl is a 01/87 model

block looks identical to yours( ie the oil and water lines) look the same but i think its s1 whats up with that?
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Old 16-04-09, 17:45   #20
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entirely possible, theres actually no such thing as s1 and s2, ppl just use s1 abd s2 as an easier way of classifying all the differences in vls
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Old 16-04-09, 18:50   #21
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Wot degree of timing is about par for a converted VL...
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Old 16-04-09, 19:18   #22
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15 degrees i think it is

Quote:
Originally Posted by malpaso
hey man good read

quick (probably silly) question: my vl is a 01/87 model

block looks identical to yours( ie the oil and water lines) look the same but i think its s1 whats up with that?
Would have to be a series 2 engine then. Mine is a 87 model with a series 2 motor not sure what month though.

Last edited by Shaun_VL; 16-04-09 at 19:20. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old 16-04-09, 19:45   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shaun_VL
15 degrees i think it is



Would have to be a series 2 engine then. Mine is a 87 model with a series 2 motor not sure what month though.

well ill just find out soon. i swear it looks the same but ive probably missed something very small

you didnt have to take out the engine or anything did ya




and timing is 15 degrees
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Old 16-04-09, 22:57   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malpaso
well ill just find out soon. i swear it looks the same but ive probably missed something very small

you didnt have to take out the engine or anything did ya




and timing is 15 degrees
Yeah can get confusing because of those other bolts in the side. But the best way to tell is the oil drain hole, it is pretty distinctive.

And nah you don't have to take the engine out or anything like that.

When do you plan on doing the conversion?
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Old 17-04-09, 08:10   #25
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Shaun, I noticed that you still have the standard NA charcoal cannister. Does this effect emissions or the plumbing of the whole thing up? What is the second line that goes to the charcoal cannister normally?

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