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Old 09-10-08, 13:22   #26
rusty577
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I see what your saying, It is possible to run na ecu & turbo injectors but driveability goes out the window and it would run like a pig unless its on full boost.
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Last edited by rusty577; 09-10-08 at 13:25.
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Old 09-10-08, 13:27   #27
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Again I wouldn't say that. I drove mine daily for months, got good fuel economy and the thing never complained. For the moment I'm too busy to argue though
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Old 09-10-08, 15:38   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rusty577
I see what your saying, It is possible to run na ecu & turbo injectors but driveability goes out the window and it would run like a pig unless its on full boost.
Give up. You can run n/a ecu with turbo injectors without a drama on a stockish setup aslong as its been on the dyno and know that your mixtures are safe and in the majority of cases its fine. Driveability is spot on, smooth all round, i've been in many cars running this way.
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Old 09-10-08, 18:45   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHRGD6
Again I wouldn't say that. I drove mine daily for months, got good fuel economy and the thing never complained. For the moment I'm too busy to argue though

lol I don't have all that much time either and I don't think this threads the right spot for it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by lil_timmy
Give up. You can run n/a ecu with turbo injectors without a drama on a stockish setup aslong as its been on the dyno and know that your mixtures are safe and in the majority of cases its fine. Driveability is spot on, smooth all round, i've been in many cars running this way.
I stand by what I said, Im sure others will agree.
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Old 09-10-08, 18:59   #30
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Just to keep focus:
Quote:
Originally Posted by ATMO_BT1
The turbo ecu is identical to the n/a one, it just lacks the knock sensor
jack has been known to get really baked and go missing for weeks though, so take it whichever way you wish.
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Old 09-10-08, 22:30   #31
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Lol killa i can see my old turbo setup in one of the first pics
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Old 10-10-08, 16:09   #32
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say all you guys like...

ive writing down "YOU NEED VL TURBO INJECTORS AND COMPUTER"

lol
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if u hear eddys vl - jet3lt, it sounds like a bunch of budgies coming at you, and one big pigeon
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Old 11-10-08, 11:19   #33
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where does the water drain go into ??? please wb asap 12.26pm
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Old 11-10-08, 15:55   #34
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water drain will go into your heater return pipe with a T piece

ill try look for the thread... was posted a while ago...

you get a hose with a hoseclamp at either end, one on the pipe other on the t piece, and cut the water hose and put the t piece there
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if u hear eddys vl - jet3lt, it sounds like a bunch of budgies coming at you, and one big pigeon
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Old 13-10-08, 07:26   #35
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very good write up mate.coulda used this a couple of months ago lol.

if people are having trouble finding a front pipe and dont want to get one custom made. pacemaker make a 3" front pipe for roughly $130. any exaust shop can order them in. and they fit betr than perfect.
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Old 20-10-08, 13:14   #36
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i have to agree with chrgd6 n timmy, i ran my car with turbo injectors and an na ecu for over a year, thinking it was a 3ta ecu lol. ran awesome never missed a beat, n the motors still going strong now with a microtech. i didnt get it tuned either, and ran 10psi all day everyday!
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Old 23-10-08, 18:01   #37
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good write up loving it.
n/a computer with turbo injectors hmm, might have to give that a go.
how have people been going with their n/a autos?
im planning to run 7-10psi with standard t3 and a cooler on high comp. hows the poor little tranny going to go?
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Old 23-10-08, 22:25   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomo
good write up loving it.
n/a computer with turbo injectors hmm, might have to give that a go.
how have people been going with their n/a autos?
im planning to run 7-10psi with standard t3 and a cooler on high comp. hows the poor little tranny going to go?
mine lasted 2-3 months on 9psi (high comp) pissed trans fluid eveywhere, then the second is still kicking i hear from the previous owner and thats bit over a year old. About 400 bucks proffesionally installed so its 50/50 really
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Old 23-10-08, 22:29   #39
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i cant stress enough the importance of running a decent tranny cooler if you want your auto to last. mine lasted over a year running 170rwkw with a derale tranny cooler and some tlc, dont neutral-dump it everywhere and she'll be right!
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Old 23-10-08, 22:36   #40
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170rwkw is pretty impressive, neutral dumps gorh.
im going to tention the bands and service it.
see how it goes
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Old 23-10-08, 23:03   #41
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i was running n/a ecu with turbo injectors ran very rich. and at times used up to $200 a week in fuel best it would get out of a full tank was 350km's. finally got the turbo ecu to work. and now i get up to 600kms to tank.
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Old 29-10-08, 20:09   #42
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nice write up mate.so the oil inlet and drain im asuming the oil drain drains from turbo to mtr?can you drain it back to sump?.im just gettinga bit confused at the moment 1st conversion i usualy always go factory turbo mtr non convert but thought id give it a try
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Old 29-10-08, 23:38   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaD_WoG
N/A Highcomp Turbo Setup

#####IMPORTANT#####
This is to be done ONLY after you have upgraded your brakes to turbo spec! N/A brakes and a Turbo DO NOT MIX, they WILL choose to FAIL at the worse possible time
###################


###################
GENERAL INFORMATION
###################
Non Engine Parts
Brakes on the VL TURBO are larger, and they have got finned calipers
Rear brakes are always DISK on a VL Turbo
Diff on a VL turbo is 28 spline Vs 25 spline for non turbo (28 is MUCH stronger)
Master Cylinder (brake) is 1" instead of 15/16'ths
Brake Booster is Double Diaphram in a turbo car
VL turbo Manual is stronger MX7 vs MF5 (non turbo is useless)
VL TURBO auto is stronger and has an oil cooler



Engine Block
The Turbo aka series 2 engine block has got the fittings as bolts in the last picture of this post.

Identification of a Factory Turbo engine block

a8 designates rb30et, a6 designates rb30e. It will only be on the number at the RIGHT HAND FRONG of the motor, the number at the left hand rear will always end in A (thx yep_boost)

Turbo
The Turbo Used is a Nissan Garrett T3, which is watercooled, it has an internal Wastegate, which is set to approx 6 PSI.

Original Turbo and Non Turbo Differences
Engine
There are a few differences between a Turbo engine and a Non Turbo engine from factory
Cam
Oil Pump
Pistons

Try running your car for a month or so on HIGH octane fuel, ultimate, vpower and all, because thats what you WILL NEED to run after you do a high comp turbo conversion, if thats too expensive, forget the turbo
Fuel Pump
N/A Fuel Pump Is fine to use with the conversion

Knock Sensor
When it detects pinging, it will retard the timing 5 degreese, if you are running a turbo computer there is a guide on installing one somewhere on calaisturbo

Oil Pump
N/A Oil Pump Is fine to use with the convserion

Fuel Regulator
N/A Fuel reg can be used with the conversion (Not With Turbo Plenum)

Fuel Rail
N/A Fuel Rail Can Be used with VLT injectors (Only With N/A Plenum)

Plenum
N/A Plenum can be used with the conversion (Flows Better Too)

Automatic Transmission
N/A Auto Transmission is hit & miss, highly recommend the first to do list is to get it bulit stronger or Aid it with Transmission Cooler that may increase its life some what, as costs to buy/replace one would reach around $300-400 proffesionally done

Manual Transmission
The MF5 is a very weak box (i broke 2 with a very stock N/A) they wont handle too much, if you drive like a granny, it sould last 6 months or so....

The coolant line labeled 3 in the pictures i had a few issues lining it up to the block, For 70-80 dollars you can get one made from the line with adjustable fittings also makes it a breeze and less chances of leaks, as these lines can bend. (michael2427)


Exhaust Manifold
The Standard Holden Manifold is used, be sure to check if it is cracked, also it would be a good idea if you replace the studs, by spraying with WD40 or similar
Turbo Dump Pipe
the holden one is fine, you can get a larger one
Dump to Cat pipe
The standard one is used, although you can get a larger one made up
Crossover Pipe
It has got one fitting on the side, which is a Vacuume hose that goes onto the AAC valve at the rear of the intake plenum
Injectors
the top of the injectors should be BROWN coloured, you MUST use Turbo injectors with a Turbo Computer, you CANNOT mix and match, if you use NON TURBO INJECTORS the motor will not get enough fuel, and most likley wont last over a week
Computer
You NEED a turbo computer in order to run the turbo injectors, an Auto computer will run both manual and auto cars, but a manual computer will not run an auto car.
Computer Identification
3TA = Turbo Auto
3TM = Turbo Manual
3EA = Non Turbo Auto
3EM = Non Turbo Manual
If no stickers on cover, Open the ecu, A turbo ecu will have a second green computer board on it for the knock sensor
Oil and Water lines
they bolt onto provisions made in the later model VL Series commonly konwn as series 2. it is advised that if you have an early one, to get a S2 motor to use (see Picture Below)
Correct me if i'm wrong anyone but you did not mention or maybe you did and i did not see it but the turbo engine has a different camshaft to the NA head and i found when i did my conversion that it helped a heap with the pre igniting (pinging)
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Old 29-10-08, 23:51   #44
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thx re the cam... ill update it

the oil drain can go into the sump (you can get a turbo shop to do it) thats what people with non turbo blocks do
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if u hear eddys vl - jet3lt, it sounds like a bunch of budgies coming at you, and one big pigeon
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Old 31-10-08, 07:53   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaD_WoG
thx re the cam... ill update it

the oil drain can go into the sump (you can get a turbo shop to do it) thats what people with non turbo blocks do


oil drain goes back into the block? I thought it did anyone, im pretty sure of this, correct me if im wrong.
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Old 31-10-08, 13:09   #46
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Either or it doesnt matter Bogz, As long as it returns at a high enough point that it has a clean return path. Moding a sump that can be removed is easier than drilling and taping a block!
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Old 31-10-08, 13:11   #47
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it goes back into the block on any series 2 engine, but what the other bloke is saying is that if u happen to be using a series 1 block which doesnt have the hole tapped and bunged ready for the drain fitting, you can just as easily remove the sump and get a fitting fitted into the side of it. this would no doubt be easier and less costly than drilling, tapping the block which would it most cases involve the removing of it completely from the car..
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Old 31-10-08, 13:46   #48
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Out of curiousity how did you manage to get the VLT charcoal canister setup?
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Old 31-10-08, 18:46   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaD_WoG
thx re the cam... ill update it

the oil drain can go into the sump (you can get a turbo shop to do it) thats what people with non turbo blocks do

cheers mate this made things alot easier for me lol i nearly was gona give up on the conversion lol but will stil continue with it now.cheers
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Old 01-11-08, 09:13   #50
KALAY
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guys, i need a photo of where the rocker cover pipe goes on the turbo engines...
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if u hear eddys vl - jet3lt, it sounds like a bunch of budgies coming at you, and one big pigeon
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