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Old 22-08-02, 18:14   #1
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Brakes

Well it looks like the pads are just about shot, now as we all know the n/a vl's have dud brakes. I basically want to know what are my options on an upgrade. At the moment, i'm not looking at spending too much, so leaving the rear drums is a must, and the master cylinder is only 18 months old, so i'm not real interested in changing that either. So what are my options?? How much am I looking at?? Who had done this?? And how much difference does it make??
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Old 22-08-02, 21:11   #2
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well i guess the only things left to do is get bigger rotors and calipers on the front. I want to do this but its just too much stuffing around and gets fairly expensive. I suppose you could upgrade to VT discs, DBA slotteds, or Hoppers Stoppers. Last time i priced this up it was gonna cost over $700! :x
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Old 22-08-02, 21:31   #3
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Hmmm

Davie boy ( afg )

Wat u can do is upgrade to turbo spec discs.... either getting 2nd hand disc's or getting DBA ones.... also if u go 2nd hand i think vp-vs v8 brakes are the same as turbo brakes.. but newer

Also most of the time they don't have the "TURBO" price tag ... or so i have been told :P afg
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Old 22-08-02, 21:38   #4
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Re: Brakes

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Originally Posted by ^Mobil_HRT^
we all know the n/a vl's have dud brakes
Watcha talking about... they are sorta good, for the fact they take alot to lock up with em... and u don't wanna lock up and go straight thru that 90 degree corner :? But u might wanna 8O
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Old 22-08-02, 23:45   #5
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I wouldn't mind going the vt option, but the cost is just far too much, think i will go with turbo's or if the later model v8 one's will fit easy, i will go with them, i just need more stopping power.

Midz, they are great for stopping the first time, not soo good the second time, getting quite hot the third time, and foot flat to the floor the fourth time. It gets pretty scary when you are going through quite a few corners in succession.
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Old 22-08-02, 23:57   #6
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Hmmm

Well learn how to drive... don't use the brakes
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Old 23-08-02, 14:46   #7
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yeah good call man.. lets all come into a tight 90 degree corner at 100kph and then completely ditch the brakes ey..

I'd love to see u even try and get ur car round the corner Midz... hahhaha !!!

learn to drive.. pffft.. maybe u should learn to use ur head before posting.

anyway.. a cheapish option would be to leave the front brakes for now and upgrade the rear drum diff with a disk one of the same specs.

I saw a disk rear end go on here a few weeks back for 150 buks, all u need to change is the handbrake cable and u do it all yourself.

If thats not an option, and u really are on a budget, maybe just some rel good quality pads up front, or u could get some new dba slotted or crossdrilled rotors for the front with some new pads ?
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Old 23-08-02, 15:06   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by exchaser
yeah good call man.. lets all come into a tight 90 degree corner at 100kph and then completely ditch the brakes ey..

I'd love to see u even try and get ur car round the corner Midz... hahhaha !!!

learn to drive.. pffft.. maybe u should learn to use ur head before posting.

anyway.. a cheapish option would be to leave the front brakes for now and upgrade the rear drum diff with a disk one of the same specs.

I saw a disk rear end go on here a few weeks back for 150 buks, all u need to change is the handbrake cable and u do it all yourself.

If thats not an option, and u really are on a budget, maybe just some rel good quality pads up front, or u could get some new dba slotted or crossdrilled rotors for the front with some new pads ?
ok... i'll reply to this coz i'm bored at tafe

about 90 degree corner at 100... u shouldn't be doing 100km/h around a 90 degree corner at the first place... ur the wanker that shouldn't be speeding in the first place !!!! poof.... but if u were gunna take that corner brake lightly, drop a gear and take a proper line though the corner.... brake abit more would slow u down limit u to no wheelspin on exit of the corner.. or u could slam the brakes at the last minute lock up for about 3m and wash speed off that way and take the corner either way is fun ...

Hmmm 100 i wouldn't be stupid enough to try it... but MMmm 90 degree using the oppsite side of the rd... i rekcon u could pull it off at 80-90 with no brakes... just have it in 2nd and the revs will die when u take ur foot off the accel.... u would be risking it but i would get around the corner with good tyres.... But i think u are taking it to extreme's coz t he only place u should legally be doing 100 is on main rd or highway... and even then if it was a 90 degree it would be posted as a 45km/h or less...
Btw i have been around about a 80degree corner at more then hundred just depends on the cars handling capabilities..

Btw u can tell i'm really bored...

Head b4 posting... well i seemed be using it ... maybe u should have used ur's b4 posting... u were like one of the highest posters in the old calaisturbo forums.... and 85% of the time u were posting ****... u only have to look at the amount of posts u were near 1000 in 3 months or so... i was at about 200 in a year.... no who talks the most ****... obiviously U

As for the cheapest option would be to change the diff.... u are looking at about 250 for the diff.. in good condition... coz u need the handbrake cable, 1inch master cylinder and also maybe a larger brake booster... then there is install price if ur not that way inclined...

Rear brakes only sumthing like 30% of braking power... so the best option would be to change the front disc's to larger spec disc's...

It would work out to be a cheaper to be cheaper.. and would have greater stopping power then n/a disc/disc... get em from the wreckers u would get em cheaper then the diff conversion...

If u wanted to spend abit extra u would be betta off getting DBA disc and using turbo/v8 calipers with good pads..

So b4 u just add to ur post count by talking **** all the time... why don't u think about wat u say...

If ya don't know i was talking to MHRT the other nite about the brakes and i was joking around with him... in the forums... so b4 ya but ur air head into thing...

Think about it ya **** :P
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Old 23-08-02, 16:40   #9
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Who says you have to be doing 100 into a 90degree corner, have u ever tried driving down ridge rd (Mt Dandenong) in a N/A VL at the speed limit, you get to the bottom and it feels like your standing on a wet sponge not a brake pedal. It doesn't have to be Ridge rd it could be any decent sized hill and the brakes on N/A VL are non-existant by the time you get to the bottom of a decent size hill, (depending how you drive) If you up the speeda bit then it can really get you in the ****.

Mobil, I recomend getting VL Turbo brakes, they are fairly expensive to convert over but you will be extremely happy, If you really cant afford/wait, then try a set of performance pads on the front.
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Old 23-08-02, 17:27   #10
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ok ****suker..... if you bothered to read anything properly, you wouldn't have just posted all that ****, reflecting what a complete ***wit u are.

Firstly..
Quote:
about 90 degree corner at 100... u shouldn't be doing 100km/h around a 90 degree corner at the first place...
I never said i was doin 100 around a tight 90 degree corner.. I was simply stating that if u were to try and go around u would most likey crash and be seriously injured. You told that other dude to "learn how to drive properly, by not using the brakes" and I simply suggested that this would be a rather inappropriate decision when coming into a tight 90 degree bend from 100kph. I never stated that I have done this before, nor that I have done it on the street. Whos to say I wasnt referring to a racetrack where u APPROACH a corner at very high speed, before washing a little of via gears and the use of the brake. ??

Quote:
Hmmm 100 i wouldn't be stupid enough to try it... but MMmm 90 degree using the oppsite side of the rd... i rekcon u could pull it off at 80-90 with no brakes
yeah another good one by you man.. have fun killing the family in the car coming round the corner on the other side of the road.

Quote:
u were like one of the highest posters in the old calaisturbo forums.... and 85% of the time u were posting ****... u only have to look at the amount of posts u were near 1000 in 3 months or so... i was at about 200 in a year.... no who talks the most ****... obiviously U
Yes I did hold the highest post count, that was however due to the fact that me and my bro both shared my 'exchaser' login, hence more posts in my name. I never actually hit 1000 posts in the 8 or 9 months that I was on the old forum. On the topic of talkin ****.. I've never seen someone post as much **** as you just did in the entire time i've been on the new or old forums. You clearly are a complete ***in wanker.

Quote:
As for the cheapest option would be to change the diff.... u are looking at about 250 for the diff.. in good condition... coz u need the handbrake cable, 1inch master cylinder and also maybe a larger brake booster
God man.. you really do like to spin **** ey.. I'm pretty sure 'turboluke' sold a good condition disk to disk diff with handbrake cable about 2 weeks ago for $150. Because we are talkin about upgrading the rear end on a naturally aspirated model vl without the turbo front calipers, there is no need for a 1" master cylinder. N/A vl calais all came out with disk rear end and they retained the 15/16 master cylinder. Again u've made yourself look like a bit of a jerk off.

Quote:
If u wanted to spend abit extra u would be betta off getting DBA disc and using turbo/v8 calipers with good pads..
There is a good 4-500 dollar worth of parts in that suggestion man.. then add the labour to get it fitted.. This guy has already stated he is on a budget so thats why i suggested the disk rear end.. Its cheap and u can easily install it yourself.. Definately better than drums.

Quote:
So b4 u just add to ur post count by talking **** all the time... why don't u think about wat u say...
hahaha.. man i'm sure most people would give me more credit for my first post in this thread than they would ever give you for ur bull****, **** up of a post. Not only did you make yourself look like a complete **** head, you also spun a fair bit of incorrect bull****..

I would just like to conclude that, you have proven yourself to me as an unintelligent, illiterate ***wit who should be banned from ever posting in this forum again. Grow up u tard, and do a bit of reading before u go posting **** next time.

The End.
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Old 23-08-02, 21:37   #11
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If anyone is still gonna read this thread after the last few posts...... perhaps u could help me with something.

Do earlier model brakes fit onto the VL? Got a wrecked brock / SS VC or VH kinda thing here - its a v8, and everything *looks* like it will fit...
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Old 23-08-02, 23:05   #12
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im pretty sure the earlier models will fit up.
if you just change the front brakes to vlt spec and have the drum at rears whilst using the standard 15/16th mas cyl , the brake bias is out a slight bit , and the chances of locking up fronts in wet especcially are greater. i have done this mod though , and coz im good , it works perfect hehehe.
even though rears are only around the 25-30% mark , having vlt fronts and drum rear will give a slightly sloopy pedal too. changing to disk rear would be a good move along with vlt fronts and a 1inch mas cyl.
good luck anyway mate
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Old 23-08-02, 23:50   #13
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Re: Hmmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Midz
Davie boy ( afg )

Wat u can do is upgrade to turbo spec discs.... either getting 2nd hand disc's or getting DBA ones.... also if u go 2nd hand i think vp-vs v8 brakes are the same as turbo brakes.. but newer

Also most of the time they don't have the "TURBO" price tag ... or so i have been told :P afg
From VP onwards the hub is different so the rotors dont fit properly, but you can use the callipers. VB to VN rotors will fit.
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Old 25-08-02, 21:30   #14
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Well learn how to drive... don't use the brakes
So what happens if a kid runs out in front of u... do u use brakes then?? I think u should learn how to drive Midz. It's pritty obvious to me if u think vl brakes r ok u've never driven round a race track and therefore "don't know how to drive".

Good brakes r very important if u like to drive and have a go in the hills. n/a vl brakes are good for 1 crash stop from 100kmh and thats all, turbo brakes crash stop from 140kmh and they're finnished. (depending on pads ofcorse).

I fitted nissan 4spots from a 300zx to my vlt, cost around $550 and 2 weeks worth of work to fit doing everything myself and modding the 300zx rotors, worth it but still could be better. i'm happy anyway.
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Old 25-08-02, 22:14   #15
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87 calais
not being smart but its vr onwards that are hubless , i have vp v8 brakes on my car.
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Old 25-08-02, 22:17   #16
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OVL wassup

hey wassup fellas, sorry to be rude to the post but OVL can u head over the the vkgroup3 posts and go to the tech and gen discussion?
sorry man just wanted to get a chat goin about a possible susburban brisbane cruise! cheers fellas :P
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Old 25-08-02, 23:06   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OVL087
87 calais
not being smart but its vr onwards that are hubless , i have vp v8 brakes on my car.
no worries mate - i heard it was vp but could easily be wrong 8)
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Old 26-08-02, 12:05   #18
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Brakes

Vp went hubless halfway through the model run. VC brakes will fit onto a vl but they are the same size as the vl n/a!
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Old 26-08-02, 13:07   #19
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Get Bendix Ultimate Pads and race brake fluid (ELF 5.1 etc.) bleed the system fully and get the rotors machined on the car......It wont be a race car but you will be suprised.
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Old 28-08-02, 15:59   #20
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Re: Brakes

Quote:
Originally Posted by carcrazy
Vp went hubless halfway through the model run. VC brakes will fit onto a vl but they are the same size as the vl n/a!
What, even from the v8 SS (or whatever the equivalent was back then)
The callipers look bigger.... but its only got the 15/16th master cyl
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Old 28-08-02, 16:39   #21
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just some thing to think about,

the standard vl brake pads are the same as the turbo ones, cheack up on that one if u want, i am 100% sure.

also have a good look at the vt brake pads, the area which makes contact, with the disk, looks very much the same size, as the vl n/a

i would be looking at cross drilled, just easing up on the heavy braking
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Old 28-08-02, 21:23   #22
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Okay, the car is booked in tomorrow for new bendix heavy duty pads and getting the disc's machined. I'm guessing they are changing over the fluid too, and they are checking out the drums for me.

I'll see how that goes for now, gotta be better than the metal on metal we currently have, geeze that sounds good......
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Old 29-08-02, 06:10   #23
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Take along your own brake fluid, the crap that most places stock is rubish, and the main cause of brake fade. find some race quality stuff before you go, it will be worth it.
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Old 29-08-02, 09:33   #24
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HSVSUX - you've done some track work before, do you know much about balance bar brake systems? I'm thinking of fitting a twin master cylinder balance bar brake system to my EH, with this set-up you dont need to run a booster/s?

Do they work?
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Old 29-08-02, 10:56   #25
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No you dont need to run a booster with an aftermarket Pedal box set up, they have two master cylinders (1 front, 1 rear) and the bance bar set up changes the pivot point between them. The reason they dont need a booster is the pedal pivot ratio is very different and they take less pedal effort but more pedal travel to move a given distance at the masters. My brother and I set up and ran this system on his race car. I have been putting off fitting this type of set up to my car, because they are a pain to mount. and I dont have much spare cash. There are about 5 or 6 different size masters, so you can use them on any car / brake combo. pedal box's (clutch and brake) are around $300, master are $100 each. (need 3) generally you can use the stock gas pedal setup. I have lost the brakes once in my car at the track, I was doing about 200 and went to brake for a haipin corner and the pedal went to the floor, turns out the seal in the std master failed. the rear circuit was kind of working so it locked the rear and went into a slide, just kept the car off the tyre wall. Also while I'm boring everyone, the other reason I should get rid of the std master / booster set up, is, when goind along the straights, most drivers give the brake pedal a couple of jabs to make sure shes all o.k, try this in a turbo car when you have your foot hard on the gas, the brake pedal goes rock hard (because all the vacuum is gone) and you hope the non-return valve in the booster will work and let vacuum in when you take your foot off the gas. every lap thats in the back of my mind. Back to your question, they work really well. but on a road car they have quite a firm feel (I like that)
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