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Old 04-06-07, 10:28   #76
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whats the biggest cam that you can run without having to change
the rocker arms?? I just want to change my valves and valve springs but
don't really wanna spend money on rocker arms. From what i have read
i can use a wade 818b but not an 1147c??
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Old 04-06-07, 11:27   #77
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You don't have to change rocker arms for either, we even have hydr camshafts with 10% more lift and duration than the 1147C with stock rocker hardware running with no problems. There are far better designs than the wade camshafts around now, they are great and have served well, there is heaps of fast cars on the streets with them, but they are based off V8 profiles and don't lift teh valve as fast as they could with the size lifter the RB30 has, so your basically giving up midrange and bottom end power for any given camshaft size.

Pm me your setup and I'll help you select a camshaft.

Cheers.............................6BOOST
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Old 04-06-07, 11:54   #78
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kyle, have you got that quote for me yet since you're not responding to my pm's?
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Old 04-06-07, 14:18   #79
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Thanks kyle, i am currently setting up a psi drop measurment system anyway, as i have my eboost measuring boost from before the cooler and my boost gauge running from the intake manifold. Obviously bar and plate makes little pressure drop.

A friend of mine has a plazmaman tube and fin core on his vlt 5 speed, all stock otherwise with exhaust and on 7psi, and the thing goes harder than mine used to when it was all stock with an exhaust, chinese cooler and 15psi!, it has a tight as anything lsd and still just wants to wheelspin everywhere! The cooler itself cost $800 (it's one of his 'race series' or something cores) but the peformance difference is quite incredible over the bar and plate hybrid copy i had! All that really proves though is as you said, a good tube and fin is better than a crummy bar and plate.. i was just astonished with the difference!
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Old 04-06-07, 14:33   #80
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Don't compare 2 different cars and think that the difference was the cooler, chances are minimal that there was more than 5hp diference between either on those cars. BAr and plate flows worse, not better, they just cooler the air more, typically. And make sure you see how much the manual boost guage reads on the same side as the Eboost before you measure drop, as I have seen Eboosts read up to 2 psi out before.

Sorry if I missed your pm lowbstvl, I'll go have a look for it and reply later, if I can't find it I'll pm ya:)

Cheers............................Kyle.
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Old 04-06-07, 14:39   #81
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thanks Kyle, so in the end your opinion would be as long as you get a high quality core it doesn't matter the fin style, as the differences on street would be negligable?
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Old 04-06-07, 14:45   #82
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The difference IMO on anything under 400rwhp would probably be unmeasurable. You'd def make more power spending $800 on something else.

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Old 04-06-07, 17:57   #83
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[QUOTE=6BOOST]It might have something to do with you using synthetic oil in a new engine, the rings don't bed in and its is considered a big no no, you should always run mineral oil in a fresh engine for at least 2000k's, at least in street applications anyway. Another thing may be ring gaps, which you can't do anything about now, and the size of the breathers. Because air speed through smaller breatehrs is higher, it often sucks out more oil with the air, increase the breather size, and it often brings the oil levels down. However this wouldn't just show up with a rebuild unless you've increased power/performance a lot over your last setup. Also, the oil restrictors are located in the block, not the head, and yes, its a good idea to make them smaller at the time of your rebuild, however this wouldn't be the cause of your sudden increase of breathing unless you went to a bigger oil pump and are really ringing the neck of this thing.

thanks mate.
have prob been using mobil 1 for 1000kms or so, with running in oil for 1000kms before that... will def be changing it asap. would this effected the rings bedding in??

so if i increse the breathers it will prob slow the amount of oil being passed?? coz im pretty sure the engine was built pretty sweet...i can ask my mate who built it fro the tolerances he used??

power wise its making 227rwkw@14 psi compared to 185 before...so its a bit of a jump but not huge. will be boosting it up to 20ish in the future should i be wary(already upgraded support systems)??

there was no modding of the restrictors, and just standard oil pump if this helps??

cheers
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Old 04-06-07, 20:51   #84
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Hi kyle
On a turbo does it matter what side the oil in and oil out are on
I got a low mount and looks like the oil return is on the top
Know what i mean?.
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Old 08-06-07, 13:02   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oddysee
Hi kyle
On a turbo does it matter what side the oil in and oil out are on
I got a low mount and looks like the oil return is on the top
Know what i mean?.
Oil return should be on the bottom.
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Old 08-06-07, 13:11   #86
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yes it should be on the bottom but if the centre has been turned around, it could be on the top
but the return has to be on the bottom

usually, oil feed is a small hole and return is a big hole
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Old 08-06-07, 13:17   #87
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and is it true oil feed MUST be on the direct top, in order for the oil to adequately cover the bearings upon entering the turbo?
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Old 08-06-07, 13:29   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TroyVK
yes it should be on the bottom but if the centre has been turned around, it could be on the top
but the return has to be on the bottom

usually, oil feed is a small hole and return is a big hole
Return is always bigger, As it carries both air and oil or airated oil.
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Old 08-06-07, 13:51   #89
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The oil RETURN will be the larger hole of the 2, and must face the bottom, it shouldn't point on anymore than a 15deg angle, or oil will pool and cake the core causing rapid wear and early failure. Unbolt the core and spin it around for the correct orientation.

Kyle.
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Old 08-06-07, 14:24   #90
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gday kyle, just the same question as before but regarding a different turbo... thge turbo in question is a t04z with 1.00 rear, when could i expect boost?
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Old 16-06-07, 17:20   #91
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I got a question 6BOOST (if i may); im looking at making a safe 300rwKw further down the track and was wondering what plenum would best suit me? I don't want a large spool time and would like the knowledge that my engine won't lean out on any one particular cylinder.

Ill be using a GT35/40, the cars a manual and all the other kit is upto the job.
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Old 16-06-07, 18:16   #92
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Nugget, with a 1.00 split rear housing on a 26/30 I'd think maybe around 4000rpm, +/- 100rpm.

burchenal, My personal favourite is the Rajab plenum, I have flow tested all the manifolds on the market, and it is the most even bar none, within 3-4 cfm per runner. It also uses the NA runners not the turbo runners, which while being longer and slightly smaller, actually flow more than the turbo lower half by 5-7 cfm as well. The plenum is small, and I can tell you its the same non ported manifold they run on the race car to run 8.3's.

There is much talk about short runner intake manifolds not loosing any low down power or spool, and without doing back to back dyno testing on an RB30 I can't show you a dyno graph, however I have done an RB25 with a greddy vs stock intake with plasmaman top half, and the greddy was 400rpm later to make 20psi than the plasmaman on the long stock lower runners. Also if you need any more indictaion, what does almost every production engine on earth, turbo or not have in runner length?? Thats right, pretty long hey, I doubt the big guys spend millions on development and get it wrong. 300rwkw will be a piece of cake for any of the plenums on the market, the above is only my personal preference and opinion, and the final decision must lie with you.

Out of interest, Tony Agius with one of my GT35 kits went 9.97@133 on 23psi with a stock rajab intake 2 weeks ago;o)

Cheers..............................kyle.
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Old 16-06-07, 20:24   #93
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thanks kyle, yeah i think ill be going with the rajab plenum mainly due to the even flow rates and the power their cars have pulled.

and also great thread, its good to be able to ask someone with the know a question and not get the "do a search" reply.
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Old 17-06-07, 11:43   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6BOOST
Nugget, with a 1.00 split rear housing on a 26/30 I'd think maybe around 4000rpm, +/- 100rpm.

burchenal, My personal favourite is the Rajab plenum, I have flow tested all the manifolds on the market, and it is the most even bar none, within 3-4 cfm per runner. It also uses the NA runners not the turbo runners, which while being longer and slightly smaller, actually flow more than the turbo lower half by 5-7 cfm as well. The plenum is small, and I can tell you its the same non ported manifold they run on the race car to run 8.3's.

There is much talk about short runner intake manifolds not loosing any low down power or spool, and without doing back to back dyno testing on an RB30 I can't show you a dyno graph, however I have done an RB25 with a greddy vs stock intake with plasmaman top half, and the greddy was 400rpm later to make 20psi than the plasmaman on the long stock lower runners. Also if you need any more indictaion, what does almost every production engine on earth, turbo or not have in runner length?? Thats right, pretty long hey, I doubt the big guys spend millions on development and get it wrong. 300rwkw will be a piece of cake for any of the plenums on the market, the above is only my personal preference and opinion, and the final decision must lie with you.

Out of interest, Tony Agius with one of my GT35 kits went 9.97@133 on 23psi with a stock rajab intake 2 weeks ago;o)

Cheers..............................kyle.

hey kyle
have been a big fan of your work and i read the above in this thread on page 1 i think and after making 440atw with my 35/40 and COFFIN plenum with turbo runners on 26psi i decided to get a rajab and do a back to back experiment,and guess what...........you are spot on man we got a lot more response(1.06 rear) and 450 on only 23psi but the power curve is way more vertical comes on like a fuucken freit train.

thanks again kyle and keep up the great work

cheers steve
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Old 17-06-07, 14:01   #95
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Thanks for the comments and feedback steve, I really appreciate it mate, and thankyou for sharing your experience with switching plenums, that is one first hand experience that backs up the flow figures.

You don't have a back to back dyno graph you could post up at all??

Cheers........................Kyle.
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Old 18-06-07, 20:27   #96
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Boost Change

Hi, Im considering building a N/a turbo setup, and I want to run a stage 3 Keas valvebody thats 4sp and semi automatic, They are only able to run up to 15psi boost in auto because of the effect on line pressure, and make the auto hold rpm too high if you go above this, could you tell me if engine compression makes any difference to PSI, if you run the same turbo on the same setting on a n/a type compression as opposed to a turbo type compression, would the smaller amount of cylinder/cumbustion chamber volume produce higher PSI.
Im after 200-220kw without going over 15psi on straight lpg, would this be possible on N/a type compression with a half decent tune?
I realy want to keep it Auto, But want 200-220rwkw more, would go full manual 4spd jatco if 200kw is unavailable on 15psi either 9:1 or 7:1 comp. Though also prefer to do it on Standard N/A comp because i'd like excelent low down driveability.
Will be Using a Cometic Head gasket of either thickness to acheive desired compression.
Thanks in advance, Your Advice is much sought and much appreciated.
Steve.
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Old 19-06-07, 09:06   #97
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Originally Posted by vl-blt1
Hi, Im considering building a N/a turbo setup, and I want to run a stage 3 Keas valvebody thats 4sp and semi automatic, They are only able to run up to 15psi boost in auto because of the effect on line pressure, and make the auto hold rpm too high if you go above this, could you tell me if engine compression makes any difference to PSI, if you run the same turbo on the same setting on a n/a type compression as opposed to a turbo type compression, would the smaller amount of cylinder/cumbustion chamber volume produce higher PSI.
Im after 200-220kw without going over 15psi on straight lpg, would this be possible on N/a type compression with a half decent tune?
I realy want to keep it Auto, But want 200-220rwkw more, would go full manual 4spd jatco if 200kw is unavailable on 15psi either 9:1 or 7:1 comp. Though also prefer to do it on Standard N/A comp because i'd like excelent low down driveability.
Will be Using a Cometic Head gasket of either thickness to acheive desired compression.
Thanks in advance, Your Advice is much sought and much appreciated.
Steve.
Ive got a straight gas (turbo motor but) vl making that much power, and with a keas 4 speed. Paul said around that power you will need the manual valve body, and its what ive got and hasnt let me down.

My car with a t3/t4 runs 110mph (never been on a dyno) on just a smidge under 16psi.
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Old 19-06-07, 11:32   #98
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vl-blt1, the problem of holding gears for too long in the non manual valve Jatcos can be helped by adding one way valves in the signal line...from time spent playing with mine ive found you need atleast 4 of them, more seems to work better....
My trans was built by MV in Adelaide, had heaps of issues with it early on holding 2nd gear for ever! Last time on dyno made 282rwkw@20psi through it and was banging into 3rd very nicely.
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Old 19-06-07, 13:01   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6BOOST
Thanks for the comments and feedback steve, I really appreciate it mate, and thankyou for sharing your experience with switching plenums, that is one first hand experience that backs up the flow figures.

You don't have a back to back dyno graph you could post up at all??

Cheers........................Kyle.

yeah too easy kyle ill pick up my other one on friday when i go there and ill send em to you as cant post pics
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Old 19-06-07, 22:52   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wyndup
vl-blt1, the problem of holding gears for too long in the non manual valve Jatcos can be helped by adding one way valves in the signal line...from time spent playing with mine ive found you need atleast 4 of them, more seems to work better....
My trans was built by MV in Adelaide, had heaps of issues with it early on holding 2nd gear for ever! Last time on dyno made 282rwkw@20psi through it and was banging into 3rd very nicely.
Thanks Wyndup, where might i find the one way valves, and do they restrict the line pressure to acheive that, Harder to push through etc..., and do they Have a Rating?

Thanks, Steve.
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