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Old 23-04-10, 19:23   #151
genki
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oh... do they take a while? bummer...

btw, i just thought i'd add, it was #6 that had the faulty drive, thus why #6s plug looked so clean, forgot to add that.

ill just try not to think about it, try and forget about that lump of white metal living in my garage for the time beeing.
Have they said how long it'll take?

Personally I haven't had to send anything to microtech, but it's pretty well known (mostly because I'm friends with a few rotor enthusiasts who obviously like microtechs).

but you'll be fine! just wait and see, roto's should look after you, i'm sure they know what they're doing
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Old 07-05-10, 14:53   #152
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For those who hate my boring stories, i have a couple of quick Qs at the bottom.

got the ecu back yesterday, they "replaced all injector drivers" (that was all the correspondence included with the returned ecu). so we figured hey, i should just be able to plug it back in and it will be on the same tune as before! so i plugged it in and went to start the car, the fuel pumps sounded weird as they primed, they went WWWWRRRRRRRRRRRRrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrmmmmmmmmm...... flat battery.

two weeks and the brand new supercharge battery is flat, i got a big 660cc, sealed type battery... two weeks to the day and its flat as a tack... does that sound right to anyone? feeling pretty bummed if thats the case, because the whole reason i was talked into buying that brand again was it shouldnt happen. obviously it is a calais so the alarm+central should be sucking some juice, guess it just means once again i need to plan ahead and trickle charge it every night before i want to take it out if its been a week or more since last driven.


anyway, charged it, went to start it, idling at 1500 rpm haha, im guessing when mick from rotos jumped in with his laptop the other day he played around with it a little bit to see if he could get it working, it doesnt stall anymore, but its rough as guts to start, and it sounds super lumpy when it starts to rev, kind of like its missing but its too hard to tell, but then revs cleanly from about 2k-> so im thinking might just be a timing issue down low.

before i went to pick up the computer i called rotos, they are so busy he didnt have time to see me for atleast another week and a half, so i called ovaboost and they fit me in on friday(week obviously). then when i got to rotos mick was like oh i could probably squeeze you in a run in on monday, i died a little inside... too many back and forths, and last time i had it squeezed in with rotos i felt like i was kind of just getting in their way as they were trying to get thru a carpark worth of hot rotors...

so i've elected to let the sleeping dog of a car lie, and deal with it in a week at ovaboost, rather than f**king around one more time.

Q1 875kms on the clock... what is everyones oppinions on how good of a run in that is? in that 870 was LOTS of highway 80up to 110 then back to run it in, but also lots of idling and sitting around etc, so its done a fair amount of work. also the bottom end had done a couple of hundred kms before i got it... what do we reckon, good enough to get it tuned up? im thinking full revs, or say redline 7k, and a low boost tune of ~7psi, drive it around for a few hundred more kms then flick the switch to 14 and live like that for a month or so before i go for 20+?

Q2 drop the oil at 1000kms, am i better off dropping it before or after the tune at ovaboost if i do go for a full tune? eg drop it now so its fresh oil for the dyno, or drop it as soon as i get it home from the dyno?
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Old 07-05-10, 15:42   #153
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with the battery mate, if ur not gonna start the car in a week, just disconnect the terminals and it should stay charged longer

i'd say it's good for a low boost tune at that sorta kms

yeah, change the oil for a lower weight now, semi/full synth maybe and then tune it.
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Old 07-05-10, 16:04   #154
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nah it should be rite 2 leve for over a month and start no probs especialy with a brand new big **** off battery like you have

my bet is u have an earth leak.

with the car off pull off the + terminal an connect up an ammeter - if it reads over say 0.5A you have an earth leak.

even drawing 0.5A is alot for a car that is turned off and the only power being drawn is the constant for the ecu and the power for the imobiliser
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Old 07-05-10, 16:42   #155
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assuming its got a differant grade of oil in it for the run in, you should change that before the tune. but i would ask whoever built it what they want you to do.
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Old 07-05-10, 16:58   #156
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assuming its got a differant grade of oil in it for the run in, you should change that before the tune. but i would ask whoever built it what they want you to do.
Yes.

In the end when it comes to running in engines everyone has a different opinion, well I've been told different by quite a few people.

But as Realist says; engine builder.

they built it, just do whatever they recommend. some say 1000km is "enough" for a run in, and from memory my shop says a few thousand (ffs) - you'll get a different answer from your tuner probably as well (I did). Either way, if you ask those who built it, I guess it's safe to assume that's a good "piece of mind".
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Old 07-05-10, 20:37   #157
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Lee said do 1000, but he said 1500+ would be a better idea so maybe another thousand to be sure.

Spoke to microtech and they said normally a blown drive (mine was blown) is caused by a faulty coil or bad wiring. So I will wait and see when ovaboost goes to tune it. If it ****s up well know if it's one of those. Obviously the other option that microtech wouldn't mention is that it may have been faulty from the start and simply blown... I'm confused how an injector driver would be effected by a faulty coil though, I assumes they would be driven by seperate Functions...
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Old 08-05-10, 02:56   #158
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As said, ask the original builder and see what he says. Grahams VL did near on 1000kms I think before being tuned, but Mick at Ovaboost doesn't think that motors need that long. Mick's torana gets a tickle and a run on the dyno after a rebuild and then full boosted to 800+rwhp not long after that. He says that you will know if there is an issue fairly quickly and a huge run in procedure isn't good.

Plus a huge run in can also not be good for your car if your plugs keep fouling and the car keeps over fuelling etc etc.

So to summarise, either talk to original engine builder and see what they want, and also have a chat to mick at ovaboost about it. In 10+ years, he has always given great advice and tuned mine, grahams and petes hi powered vl turbos to perfection.

And also chat to mick regarding oil. Running in oil is very very bad in his opinion. Check that out aswell. If you use running in oil, or even leave in for too long, then this can be disaster.

Jack, you will understand my worry for you and your engine once you speak to mick about all this as he makes alot of sense and I have never heard of him hurting an engine after rebuiling or on his dyno ever...hence why I swear by him.

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Old 09-05-10, 14:48   #159
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my engine was built by kostecki's in malaga, andrew said that basically once she goes on the dyno and is tuned she will be run in, all their work is warrantied as long as u follow what they say so sounds good to me. just need to get the damn motor back in! also agree with HoldenOn, as andrew told me to just put my preferred oil in straight away, no run-in oil as there is no need for it.
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Old 09-05-10, 16:39   #160
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hahaha wow yours is almost finished too, great! just in time for winter like mine :/

matt (holdenon) thanks for the advice, i guess everyone is right, ill just drop the oil now, put in the recomended oil (regardless of whats already in there) and see what mick at ovaboost says.

just hoping that the ecu is all good, i cant tell whats going on with it atm.
Matt do you know much about the big autometer tachos? like the one you had and the one i have? because its not reading right? im thinking because it came off a v8, and now its on a 6cyl, its not reading the revs right because its thinking it needs 8 fires, instead of 6? it certainly is about bang on 3/4 of what it should be reading... is it easy to change?
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Old 09-05-10, 16:56   #161
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hahaha wow yours is almost finished too, great! just in time for winter like mine :/

matt (holdenon) thanks for the advice, i guess everyone is right, ill just drop the oil now, put in the recomended oil (regardless of whats already in there) and see what mick at ovaboost says.

just hoping that the ecu is all good, i cant tell whats going on with it atm.
Matt do you know much about the big autometer tachos? like the one you had and the one i have? because its not reading right? im thinking because it came off a v8, and now its on a 6cyl, its not reading the revs right because its thinking it needs 8 fires, instead of 6? it certainly is about bang on 3/4 of what it should be reading... is it easy to change?
For the tacho there are wires at the back, if it came off an 8 you will need to rejoin that wire and cut the one for the 6cyl, cant remember what colour it is off the top of my head, ill have a look at mine and get back to ya! edit: mine has the brown wire cut

For the oil i would run mineral oil for the first 15-30 mins of running with a magnet on the filter, then drop it and fill with more mineral oil for a 1000k's, then id switch to a semi synthetic or full synthetic oil, most of the bed in of the rings will be done in the first few hundred k's, well thats my opinion anyway..each to there own i guess!

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Old 09-05-10, 21:23   #162
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Hey Jack, as per SilverCal, I think he has it right with the tacho. I didn't install mine, I had my best mate do it as he is an auto electrician.

With regards to oil, ask Mick before putting any other viscosity and type in. I do know that you shouldn't just put in synthetic straight up, but using running in oil is not good as per Mick because its like water. And it actually seems like it is too thin.

Talk to Mick and see what grade oil you should put in and when.

Seems like your almost there mate. Hopefully the little dramas stop and you get this beast running on full boost in the near future
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Old 09-05-10, 22:45   #163
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what ecu are you running jack?
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Old 09-05-10, 22:50   #164
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what ecu are you running jack?
microtech lt16s


yeah, i expected some problems, and its actually been quite funny, i was afraid of big expensive problems, so far the problems have cost nothing, but instead wasted almost a months time haha. just how it goes, so agitated just want to drive it.
just hoping for good luck from here, atleast for a little while...

ill be dropping the oil on tuesday, and hopefully sorting out the tacho at the same time.
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Old 11-05-10, 17:32   #165
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got the oil, lee said penrite hpr 60, so i got that, just about to drop it.
lee said **** it chuck 18 pounds in should be right haha, so ill wait till friday at ovaboost, get mick to make sure its all running good looking ok and if everything is good im thinking 10psi low boost, drive it around for a while, 18psi high boost, i

ll flick the switch when im comfortable with how the car goes. still probably go for a reletively "safe" tune, i dont want to squeeze everything out of it just yet anyway, with the possibility of 5 or so more psi to be pushed on 98 out of the 35/40 ill save pushing it untill we know how the car behaves.

very nervous about police etc, not that i drive it like a maniac but getting bent over by the cops would be the end of this project untill 2012 i reckon, would take a good year and a half to get it all sorted...
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Old 11-05-10, 17:41   #166
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Oh so you're not running it in now ?!

Burnout vids !!!


(contrary to the above lol)
Don't worry about the police, don't do anything silly*




*silly includes: driving during 'yellow sticker time' (ie: friday nights etc. NIGHT cruises can be 'dangerous', but it's a risk some are willing to take), going on roads where there can be booze buses etc. oh yeh and skids in public. Also maintain appearance of ones VL goes a long way, including engine bay

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Old 12-05-10, 18:42   #167
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Haha I work most weekends anyway, so hopefully that will keep me off the road at bad times.

As far as I'm concerned over 800kms is enough of a run in, add the couple of hundred kms done by the previous owner and I reckon we're home. Just want to do more than 3 and a half thousand Roma, even if I'm only using 10psi.
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Old 12-05-10, 23:54   #168
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Hpr 60? Thats a bit thick! I know a lot of people including my self that swear by hpr30 but 60 is pretty thick man
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Old 13-05-10, 00:39   #169
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shhh dont tell him, its funny.
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Old 13-05-10, 05:49   #170
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its alright, i have hpr 30, i just remembered the big gold number on the bottle, i

-all i did was called the person who put the motor together, sanders, and wrote down what he said, then went and bought exactly that. wouldnt get anything other than what is recomended by those who put the motor together.

though thankyou unseen for pointing that out, would have been a pretty big mistake.
the positive re-enforcement from fmx is fantastic too, quick google of "penrite hpr 60" shows they dont even stock an oil of that grade.



fingers crossed everything goes to plan this time round, if the computer packs it in well know i have serious issues elsewhere. im sick of waiting now though, done so much procrastinating over the last few months about this bucket. got a million more things that i need to do or sort out with the car from this point forwards its nearly making me dizzy when i start thinking about... i do appreciate the helpful answers up from those of you who've kept up with my ramblings to this point. especially those who pmmed me with good bits of info. i do realise alot of my questions were easily answered, and most of them were pointless even to ask, because the decisions were already made or other factors would give only one result anyway some of the questions i even already knew or had then answers, but i was just seeking oppinions anyway. honestly, all i've had to do for the last 6+months is talk... hopefully alot of that can stop when the cars up and running


dont want to get too far ahead of myself, but next up is suspension i reckon... considering going coil overs, so i can adjust it for street/strip duties as i'd rather drive the car to the track, change wheels, and race it, either way theres a bit of work involved in that, and right now i just dont think the bank acount can handle many more outlays. looks like i've just missed out on racing it this season. Even with everything going smoothly from here im just about to have the car operational for winter.


most important matter at hand is i just have a feeling im going to be needing a few sets of tires... any1 have 17" tires with ~50% tread left? probably be safer to bang stockies on the back, but that just screams "up to no good". that and fuel, the car was doing 200km/40L on the "run in" tune i had, running so rich... i dont expect economy to be much better with boost as an option...
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Old 13-05-10, 09:28   #171
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I have 4 17"s. They are sitting on rims at the moment but can be taken off as I don't need them.
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Old 13-05-10, 20:14   #172
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saw the car 2 day and it sounds like sex....loud abusive violent sex.

i think this thread needs a title change
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Old 13-05-10, 23:03   #173
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saw the car 2 day and it sounds like sex....loud abusive violent sex.

i think this thread needs a title change
4 hours to change the oil? id say we made good time!

hopefully it sounds a little tidier 2moro. fingers crossed i dont get fingered 2moro when the tune happens.


also called the guy who i got the bottom end off, i thought he had done a couple of hundred kms... turns out he did 1000 run in kms... haha, i didnt really need to do all those kms again, what a hassle.

dropped the oil, filled it up, oh and jack i measured the old oil as i poured it back into various bottles i found around the house/in the recycling, looks like it had 7-8L of oil in it...
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Old 14-05-10, 10:32   #174
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ohwell u did say it was overfilled b4.

gl with the tune
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Old 17-05-10, 15:38   #175
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for those of you who i havent told already...

car went 405rwhp @20psi on ovaboosts dyno on friday.

its a safe tune, mick at ovaboost did a great job, he's got it getting richer from about 5k onwards to make sure it doesnt lean out. i feel pretty confident the car can handle a fair bit of abuse with the tune its got. sure i spose some more power could be easily gotten out of it by not fattning it up at the end with a few more psi. but im pretty comfortable that for the road (and my 235s) 400rwhp is enough for now haha. mick also stressed the fact that ovaboosts dyno reads "low" compared to other shops who have happy dynos, i honestly didnt care too much wha the exact number was. the end power figure is just a box thats ticked, its of no real consequence, what is however is how it goes, it really boogies.

car drives perfect once its warm, can cruise it and all you can hear is the drone of the exhaust. the brakes are fantastic (thanks to vhr32 for his stuff) and the car feels quite planted onthe road at all times.

ill go for more power probably next season, 400rwhp is all i want to drive on the street, and ill go for 30+ psi on race fuel in around christmas time i reckon.

seems like the wastegate has a 1.5bar spring in it, lowest boost i can run is 17psi (~360rwhp available) bit of a shock to the plans of cruising it on 10psi, just means ill be more careful as i learn how it behaves.

on a side note it blew a line off the waste gate on one power run, graph shot through the 400+rwhp mark without any sign of slowing at around 5000 rpm. motor didnt miss a beat. while this means nothing now, its evident that the ignition is up to the task, and it was a hint of what 30psi would be like on a better fuel.
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