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LSX Garage - Performance has a new home...

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Old 20-04-16, 21:35   #1
Vlt wag
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Another crank angle sensor problem slash electrical

Hi been stuffing around with my Vl turbo for at least a month now here and there putting together a fresh engine and I cannot get it to run at all just a quick question doing all the usual crank angle sensor checks at the 4 pin plug and have correct voltage and also have correct voltage at ecu for both 120 degree and 1 degree signal then turn car off plug connector back on and have no 5 volts koeo at computer or back probing the plug for 120 degree signal this cas is new that I have tested and had the old one in the car and it wouldn't run and had same problem but reversed as I had no power plugged in to the 1 degree signal is it safe to assume that my brand new cas is faulty like the old one? Or could this be ecu fault the only thing being that when the car is off and cas unplugged all ecu outputs seem to be 5v[COLOR="Silver"]

---------- Post added 21-04-16 at 07:30 ----------

Last edited by Vlt wag; 21-04-16 at 10:43.
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Old 21-04-16, 13:36   #2
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Has the computer got power while cranking?

I had a vl that wouldn't start. It had no spark so I changed the CAS and tested everything else spark related with no faults found.

With the key in the 'ON' position the red/green LEDs on the computer would light up and I could hear the fuel pump prime, however the LEDs would go out when the key was turned to 'START'

It turned out the contacts in the the ignition switch that feed power to the computer (pink wire) while the key is held in the start position were faulty. The contacts that fed power to the starter (purple wire) were good, still allowing the starter to crank.

I got the car going by having the key in the on position and powering the starter solenoid from the battery using a piece of wire.

I later replaced the ignition switch.
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Old 21-04-16, 21:27   #3
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Cheers handy bit of info will check that in the morning have gone over basically everything I can think of still to no avail it has a new cas in it at the moment but no result I'm thinking it's only a cheap one from the local efi parts so will be picking up a new one tomorrow to be sure have tested power transitor and coil and all seem to be working fine but I am getting ignition circuit code and coolant temp one and the cas one so new cts tomorrow as it does smell quite fuelie winding over which on a fresh engine isn't ideal so fingers crossed it gets sorted the other thing I noticed was everyone talking about the reverse polarity relay but I assume mines in order as I now have pulse and constant power either side of the injectors with the key off

---------- Post added 21-04-16 at 21:30 ----------

And to answer your question i did check that it had power cranking and it did seem to but will double check that in the morning
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Old 22-04-16, 12:55   #4
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Okay, you're on track.

Yeah, now check that the spark plugs aren't fouled with fuel from playing around with the CAS. I've had that happen too.
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Old 22-04-16, 13:50   #5
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Yeah plugs are new but odds on they will be fouling with the coolant temp code just picked up coolant temp sensor new cas and will head home soon to double check the plugs will pull them out and give em a clean to be sure but fingers crossed it goes I'll check that pink wire while cranking I've been checking a lot of stuff on my own so has been a bit hard to do two things at once but I've got some help this afternoon if that ignition switch is the cause then where do I jump it with the ignition on to start it without the key ?
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Old 22-04-16, 15:32   #6
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Ignition key in 'on' position. In park or neutral.

Pull the spade connector for the pink wire off the starter solenoid terminal. (This pink wire should lead to a big grey plug and continue up the loom as a thicker purple wire)

Grab a long piece of wire, hold it against the solenoid terminal and then touch the other end of the wire to the positive terminal of the battery. The engine should crank.
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Old 22-04-16, 19:07   #7
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Thanks for that mate got home a bit late this evening so have a day off tomorrow so I'll get into it first thing I'm really hoping tomorrow is a good day for the old girl and she gets going I'm sick of looking it sitting there I just wanna drive it

---------- Post added 23-04-16 at 11:30 ----------

Ok well car runs at the moment but not very well still getting coolant temp code with new sensor in what I have noticed is it has a new plug on it and the new sensor wouldn't fit with the locater on the front I had to trim it off with a razor blade now is it possible that those wires are around the wrong way or does polarity not matter with this I'm unsure ?
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Old 23-04-16, 14:10   #8
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Ahh good it's going at least.

I've had the same issue before with aftermarket plugs not fitting the sensor and vice versa.

I honestly don't know about the polarity off the top of my head. I know one of the wires goes to the AFM and the other to the ECU.

I have seen somewhere how to test the coolant temp sensor by resistance at different temperatures with a multimeter. Obviously there's nothing wrong with your sensor but the test procedure may give indication of polarity??

If not, try reversing the polarity and see how you go? However I'm not certain whether it might short out something..
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Old 24-04-16, 11:16   #9
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Thanks mate have it running all sweet now thanks for ur help mate
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Old 24-04-16, 14:07   #10
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No worries!
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