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Old 20-05-15, 07:49   #1
Impreza25
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650hp rb30 am I dreaming?

Hi folks I'm new here hope you can help me with my project. The rb30 is on nissan cefiro a31. Now I want to build the engine to handle more boost here's the mods.

The block
Oem crankshaft
Oem rod
Forged low comprision piston
Acl or oem bearings ?
Acl or oem head bolts?
Rb25det oil pump

The head
Ported hot cold side
Dual valve
Forged or oem valves?
Crow camshaft or other brands?
Um ebay aluminum intake manifold or stock?
850cc injectors
I dont want to spend 1000 bucks on greddy turbo manifold so will stick with ebay or something dont cost more than 400

Turbo
Borg Warner s300
Tial wastegate
Cxracing 3 intercooler
3 downpipe to catback

Rb25det gearbox
Act clutch

Some one enlight me if the drive shaft and the diff can hold that power if know which diff and drive shaft I should look for?

Will upgrade the front brakes.

And last the ecu maybe fcon v pro or nistune or aem ems6. But can I reach 650hp with nistune?! Also can you tell me if its possible and reliable to reach 650hp ? The car will be weekly driven only. Also should I look for forged rods or the oem rod is fine?

Thanks
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Old 20-05-15, 10:33   #2
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Asking a question like this will only end up confusing the crap out of you as people have different ways of making power and there will be hundreds of combinations that will do so

My advise, choose a workshop and speak to them about your build. Stick to one workshop and be done with it. They will have known combinations and parts they like to use

650hp is not unrealistic, even if your measuring it at the wheels, but its going to need a lot of support systems and some decent bits to keep it all together. Reliable horsepower costs money so be prepared to spend it.

I do know one thing, a standard RB25 5 speed will not last long with that sort of power. Mine did last ages but as soon as we put a 2 step on the car and we let someone else drive it it didn't make it past the first burnout before it broke the box!!!!
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Old 20-05-15, 10:39   #3
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Old 20-05-15, 12:27   #4
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I'm making 600rwhp, or about 730hp at the fly. The glide is very good at just putting power down, the car has enough power and response that even with 3.45 gearing - it's still very hard to hold straight while booting it from low speed. The standard diff if in good condition is fine. You'll more than likely need e85 to keep the engine happy, in which case 800cc injectors are too small - I'd recommend ID2000s as a minimum. I run factory valves, factor lifters and just upgraded springs with a small hydraulic cam. The bottom end has h-beam rods and ACL pistons - nothing flash. Standard balancer, standard balanced crank, standard oil pump and standard sump. Head studs are highly recommended.

Id use a turbo with a 65mm+ wheel in it, personally I use a GT35 1.06 rear and TO4Z billet 11 blade front wheel, and it sings at 30psi. I get boost from 4000rpm, but when using the 5200 convertor it's VERY responsive - as in I can just floor it from a standing start and it will hose the tires. A three speed would be nearly undriveable - as it wheel spins even with the traditionally unresponsive top gear of the glide that is good for 165mph+ from 60kms onwards.

The computer is important and will hold the package together, I dont like the idea of 30psi and a AFM, so for me a Microtech was the best option around. I use a MSD ignition with SS blaster coil and it has been spot on.

I'd recommend going a bigger exhaust, 3.5" from the start.. I went the 3" route and it is a restriction. Factory inlet manifold is fine, especially with the forward facing conversion. A R33 5 speed will be ok with a good clutch. Bearing in mind the 5 speed will lose a lot less power on the way to the tyres than a glide with 5200 convertor, the engine shouldn't need to make as much power, and therefore live a happier life.

At 600rwhp you wont have any traction at all... with street tyres while on boost.
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Old 20-05-15, 17:50   #5
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Originally Posted by ido09s View Post
Asking a question like this will only end up confusing the crap out of you as people have different ways of making power and there will be hundreds of combinations that will do so

My advise, choose a workshop and speak to them about your build. Stick to one workshop and be done with it. They will have known combinations and parts they like to use

650hp is not unrealistic, even if your measuring it at the wheels, but its going to need a lot of support systems and some decent bits to keep it all together. Reliable horsepower costs money so be prepared to spend it.

I do know one thing, a standard RB25 5 speed will not last long with that sort of power. Mine did last ages but as soon as we put a 2 step on the car and we let someone else drive it it didn't make it past the first burnout before it broke the box!!!!
I will build the engine to avoid high cost I will install most the parts. The problem in my place no one like to turbo rb30 sohc at all its rare theres few rb30 with rb25 head I only saw one car. Can you be more specific about the support system ?. Also which gear box will handle that power ? Thanks

---------- Post added 20-05-15 at 11:20 ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Morgz View Post
I'm making 600rwhp, or about 730hp at the fly. The glide is very good at just putting power down, the car has enough power and response that even with 3.45 gearing - it's still very hard to hold straight while booting it from low speed. The standard diff if in good condition is fine. You'll more than likely need e85 to keep the engine happy, in which case 800cc injectors are too small - I'd recommend ID2000s as a minimum. I run factory valves, factor lifters and just upgraded springs with a small hydraulic cam. The bottom end has h-beam rods and ACL pistons - nothing flash. Standard balancer, standard balanced crank, standard oil pump and standard sump. Head studs are highly recommended.

Id use a turbo with a 65mm+ wheel in it, personally I use a GT35 1.06 rear and TO4Z billet 11 blade front wheel, and it sings at 30psi. I get boost from 4000rpm, but when using the 5200 convertor it's VERY responsive - as in I can just floor it from a standing start and it will hose the tires. A three speed would be nearly undriveable - as it wheel spins even with the traditionally unresponsive top gear of the glide that is good for 165mph+ from 60kms onwards.

The computer is important and will hold the package together, I dont like the idea of 30psi and a AFM, so for me a Microtech was the best option around. I use a MSD ignition with SS blaster coil and it has been spot on.

I'd recommend going a bigger exhaust, 3.5" from the start.. I went the 3" route and it is a restriction. Factory inlet manifold is fine, especially with the forward facing conversion. A R33 5 speed will be ok with a good clutch. Bearing in mind the 5 speed will lose a lot less power on the way to the tyres than a glide with 5200 convertor, the engine shouldn't need to make as much power, and therefore live a happier life.

At 600rwhp you wont have any traction at all... with street tyres while on boost.
Sounds like nice car. What brand is the h-beam rod? I only found pauter and manley who make h-beam rod the rest make it for the hybrid rb30/25. I read in some forums about cutting the arp head stud bc of some kind of pro in it do you have idea if there's a pro with the arp head stud for the rb30? Do you recommend other brand?

What you think about BW s300 turbo for my project ?

Do you reccomend any specefic camshaft ?
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Old 20-05-15, 21:11   #6
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Originally Posted by Impreza25 View Post
I will build the engine to avoid high cost I will install most the parts. The problem in my place no one like to turbo rb30 sohc at all its rare theres few rb30 with rb25 head I only saw one car. Can you be more specific about the support system ?. Also which gear box will handle that power ? Thanks[COLOR="Silver"]
By support systems i mean your intercooler, inlet manifold, exhaust, fueling

My car makes 500rwkw and its cost a fortune to do it reliably. 115mm thick intercooler, 2000cc injectors and a damn good ECU (Link G4), surge tank and twin 044 Bosch fuel pump's, dash 6 braided fuel lines x2, clutch is a OS triple plate, gearbox is an RB25 gearbox but has a full OS Giken 5 speed gear set. You will need a decent diff and driveshafts, brakes, suspension.

You need to build the entire car to cope with that power level
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Old 21-05-15, 06:29   #7
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Originally Posted by ido09s View Post
By support systems i mean your intercooler, inlet manifold, exhaust, fueling

My car makes 500rwkw and its cost a fortune to do it reliably. 115mm thick intercooler, 2000cc injectors and a damn good ECU (Link G4), surge tank and twin 044 Bosch fuel pump's, dash 6 braided fuel lines x2, clutch is a OS triple plate, gearbox is an RB25 gearbox but has a full OS Giken 5 speed gear set. You will need a decent diff and driveshafts, brakes, suspension.

You need to build the entire car to cope with that power level
What should be my limit if I use stock rb25det gearbox stock diff stock drive shaft 1000cc injector single fuel pump. Intercooler maybe mishimoto or cx racing but all the 3 pipe will be from cxracing. What should be the limit? Also in some other forums some guys run 600hp on stock rb gearbox maybe your car is daily driven? I only want to drive it in the weekend.
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Old 21-05-15, 15:32   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impreza25 View Post
Sounds like nice car. What brand is the h-beam rod? I only found pauter and manley who make h-beam rod the rest make it for the hybrid rb30/25. I read in some forums about cutting the arp head stud bc of some kind of pro in it do you have idea if there's a pro with the arp head stud for the rb30? Do you recommend other brand?

What you think about BW s300 turbo for my project ?

Do you reccomend any specefic camshaft ?
I recommend the TX2, it's a pretty flexible camshaft and can rev and make good power.

I use Spool h beam rods, no problems with them to date. ARP would be the ones to see about head studs.

How many mm is the comp wheel in the S300 your looking at? I think they're a good turbo, they seem to work - but look a bit crappy lol.
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Old 22-05-15, 02:27   #9
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Originally Posted by Morgz View Post
I recommend the TX2, it's a pretty flexible camshaft and can rev and make good power.

I use Spool h beam rods, no problems with them to date. ARP would be the ones to see about head studs.

How many mm is the comp wheel in the S300 your looking at? I think they're a good turbo, they seem to work - but look a bit crappy lol.
Here's the turbo specs. Compressor: 66 mm inducer / 91.4mm exducer, with exclusive Extended Tip Technology.

Turbine: 80 mm inducer / 73 mm exducer. Cast in Inconel 713 for high-temperature operation.

Housings:

Compressor: Large 4.00" ported anti-surge air inlet / 3.00" charge pipe outlet

Turbine: .91 A/R Twin Scroll, with 'T4', divided entry, and 4.21" v-band discharge.

I think it's laggy maybe ?
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Old 23-05-15, 16:27   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Impreza25 View Post
Hi folks I'm new here hope you can help me with my project. The rb30 is on nissan cefiro a31. Now I want to build the engine to handle more boost here's the mods.

The block
Oem crankshaft
Oem rod
Forged low comprision piston
Acl or oem bearings ?
Acl or oem head bolts?
Rb25det oil pump

The head
Ported hot cold side
Dual valve
Forged or oem valves?
Crow camshaft or other brands?
Um ebay aluminum intake manifold or stock?
850cc injectors
I dont want to spend 1000 bucks on greddy turbo manifold so will stick with ebay or something dont cost more than 400

Turbo
Borg Warner s300
Tial wastegate
Cxracing 3 intercooler
3 downpipe to catback

Rb25det gearbox
Act clutch

Some one enlight me if the drive shaft and the diff can hold that power if know which diff and drive shaft I should look for?

Will upgrade the front brakes.

And last the ecu maybe fcon v pro or nistune or aem ems6. But can I reach 650hp with nistune?! Also can you tell me if its possible and reliable to reach 650hp ? The car will be weekly driven only. Also should I look for forged rods or the oem rod is fine?

Thanks
The poor man always pays twice! I can here that stateman ringing true here lol!

Man everyone wants to make the most power for the least amount of money but at the end of the day the good parts cost alot because it's what you require.

have a good think about your ultimate goal for the car, sometimes spending more now can save you spending ALOT more later on!

Do some more research on other ppls setups, work out what you can do yourself etc (can save yourself alot of dollars if you can spin a spanner)
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Old 23-05-15, 20:58   #11
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[I]The poor man always pays twice!
Quoted for truth!!!!

Being a mechanic who built these things for a living i have seen it all too often. Tight asses who wanted to spend nothing on used parts only to see them fail a few weeks later and get stung again for buying brand new parts happened regularly enough. "I told you so" was my favourite saying!!!!
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Old 26-05-15, 05:24   #12
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The poor man always pays twice! I can here that stateman ringing true here lol!

Man everyone wants to make the most power for the least amount of money but at the end of the day the good parts cost alot because it's what you require.

have a good think about your ultimate goal for the car, sometimes spending more now can save you spending ALOT more later on!

Do some more research on other ppls setups, work out what you can do yourself etc (can save yourself alot of dollars if you can spin a spanner)
Where's the cheap parts in my list? Its all branded and in new condition
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Old 26-05-15, 08:00   #13
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I think what he is trying to say is don't build half a car. Like I said earlier, 650hp is a decent amount of power and the entire car will need to be built to cope. You cant just build a motor with reasonable parts and expect it to stay together, it takes a lot more than that
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Old 26-05-15, 09:34   #14
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I think there are areas where you should spend money and some you can skimp a bit if you want. Fuel system, computer, turbo and driveline is where money is well spent IMO.

If your building a street engine running on pump e85 or pump 98, the difference between having spool rods or carrilo or nitto is negligible - they're all fine for the street. Porting cylinder heads etc... waste of time and money unless your looking for everything out of your RB30. Yeah you'll make more power on less boost if all goes well... but unless you have built the car and pushed it to its limits and can't get more power out of it with more boost, then IMO it's a waste of money.

The computer makes the whole thing streetable, and while I've heard good things about fconv, and nistune.. I'd never use one. Microtechs, haltechs, links, vipecs.. they're all proven and most workshops can tune them well, and more than that, most ignition systems are compatible with them.

Fuel system is the other area, good quality big injectors are fine and streetable on the street with a good computer. 1000cc for petrol and 2000 for e85 will work well for most cars. I wouldn't be trying to push 650rwhp out of a rb30 on pump 98 though.
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Old 26-05-15, 10:49   #15
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I think there are areas where you should spend money and some you can skimp a bit if you want. Fuel system, computer, turbo and driveline is where money is well spent IMO.

If your building a street engine running on pump e85 or pump 98, the difference between having spool rods or carrilo or nitto is negligible - they're all fine for the street. Porting cylinder heads etc... waste of time and money unless your looking for everything out of your RB30. Yeah you'll make more power on less boost if all goes well... but unless you have built the car and pushed it to its limits and can't get more power out of it with more boost, then IMO it's a waste of money.

The computer makes the whole thing streetable, and while I've heard good things about fconv, and nistune.. I'd never use one. Microtechs, haltechs, links, vipecs.. they're all proven and most workshops can tune them well, and more than that, most ignition systems are compatible with them.

Fuel system is the other area, good quality big injectors are fine and streetable on the street with a good computer. 1000cc for petrol and 2000 for e85 will work well for most cars. I wouldn't be trying to push 650rwhp out of a rb30 on pump 98 though.
I heard rips performance run 800hp+ on stock rb30 I don know this true. I will use manley rod and arias pistons. I beilive the engine will hold 900hp but the main pro will be the drivetrain and gearbox won't handle 650hp unless spend big money. Also it will be useless to build engine for 400-500hp car. In general based on my mods how maby hp should I looking for ?
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Old 26-05-15, 11:02   #16
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yeah running big hp on a stock bottom end can be done, but you'll need good fuel and the engine wont last... it will do pop at some stage, and yep your right, no point having big power if your driveline can't hold it.

I wouldn't focus to much on power, it's kind of irrelevant. It could be anywhere from 400rwhp to 700rwhp depending on fuel type, boost and everything else. End of the day a 300rwkw manual car will be skating everywhere under load, and so the difference between that and a 450rwkw on the street is negligible.
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Old 27-05-15, 15:14   #17
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for a street car anything more then 400rwhp is wasted power as you cant put it down.
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Old 27-05-15, 16:10   #18
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im aiming for 350rwkw on a a6 bottom end. 3mm commetic gasket. you guys reckon its possible and with a good fuel system. was considering e85
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Old 27-05-15, 19:13   #19
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im aiming for 350rwkw on a a6 bottom end. 3mm commetic gasket. you guys reckon its possible and with a good fuel system. was considering e85

you will make 350kw easy with e85
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