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Old 17-06-05, 20:20   #1
FRCED-6
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Basic Guide to eliminate boot rattle

hey guys and girls, as most of you may know, i gave my car a respray.. once it was all back together and my subs were in to boot ( 2 12" clarion ) i noticed a very annoying boot rattle...

as most VLs do have some sort of boot rattle, i thought id make a small guide to fix most and or eliminate boot rattle

Tools you will need :

- caulking gun
- tube of sellys all clear
- roll of masking tape
- ur trust that this works
- 1/2" (12.5mm ) socket with ratchet or 1/2" spanner
- 5/16" ( 8 mm ) socket with ratchet
- plaster scraper ( 50mm )
- rag and a bottle of mineral turpentine

Step 1

the boot latch on the body of the car can sometimes be loose or up too high, causing the boot lid to balance...
undo the bolt holding the latch on the body and push the latch all the way down ( this will make ur boot have a step along the bobtail line but its barely noticeable ) then tighten.

also tighten the hinges as they can be loose.

Step 2

along the rear of the car where ur taillights sit are 5 little bolts that hold the taillights on, undo them and place taillights in a safe place, also it is wise to remove the centre garnish as it can rattle too.

Step 3

heres where the fun is...

there are 3 moulds along the top of the rear bumper remove them all and run a tiny bead of silicone along the top of the inner lip. ( stay about 2mm from the top of the mould as this will be filled later ) run a bead of silicone along the metal brackets in the centre garnish aswell.



Step 4

once you have all 3 peices siliconed up, its time to replace the moulds, start with the rear one as it bolts up so there is pressure applied and silicone is visible.



Step 5

once you have the rear mould done, feed one of the side moulds back into the rear mould peice first, then slowly bring the front around until you have the little clips in place and the mould cover is inline with the holes on the inner guard.



Step 6

once the mould is in place, you can then apply pressure from the centre of the mould and stick a peice of masking tape on the bodywork first, work the tape to the top lip of the mould, over the mould then make it tight down to the bumper, repeat this so you have about 5 peices of masking tape holding the mould tightly against the bodywork. repeat steps 4,5 and 6 for the other side.



Step 7

once both moulds are on tight, with your scraper, gently run it along the top of the moulds to remove the excess silicone, wipe it on an old rag. go along the rear mould aswell.

Step 8

once excess silicone is removed, you may put your taillights back in place, but be sure to put the centre garnish in first ! do remember that the housings are plastic and are prone to break, so do them up firmly.





Step 9

once the car is back together, get your rag and bottle of mineral turpentine pour a little bit onto the rag and wipe any other excess silicone that cant be gotten with the scraper.


i have tried this method and it does work, it is a cheap and easy way to eliminate most if not all rattle

another QUICK TIP is to tighten your numberplate and put 2 extra screws in

no responsibility will be taken, i typed this as a guide

dale
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I highflowed my N/A Ecu.

Last edited by FRCED-6; 04-09-05 at 18:30.
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Old 27-07-05, 12:02   #2
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From what i have read Dale.. thats a damn good idea that ill be doin very soon..
well written too dude... thanks
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Old 29-07-05, 15:11   #3
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Good article, I have lost 2 boot locks from my 15" Earthquake dam it.
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Old 29-07-05, 16:02   #4
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Nice article. Try and get some step by step pics up.
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Old 23-08-05, 20:21   #5
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sorry im a bit of a vl newbe.. just bought one.. any chance of some pics with those instructions.. id really appriciate that...i have a cannon exhaust and wen i accelerate the boot is very , VERY rately at the begining, then is stops while im cruzing... ide really like to eliminate this ratle.. if you put sum pics it would help me alot..thanks
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Old 27-08-05, 22:01   #6
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gonna try this for sure cheers...
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Old 30-08-05, 16:27   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave197
sorry im a bit of a vl newbe.. just bought one.. any chance of some pics with those instructions.. id really appriciate that...i have a cannon exhaust and wen i accelerate the boot is very , VERY rately at the begining, then is stops while im cruzing... ide really like to eliminate this ratle.. if you put sum pics it would help me alot..thanks
i will take pics after the 2nd respray . im respraying my car again, the same yellow, just flowcoating the paint this time

when it comes time for reassemble, i shall take pics then
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Old 31-08-05, 20:11   #8
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Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by TUFBT-1
i will take pics after the 2nd respray . im respraying my car again, the same yellow, just flowcoating the paint this time

when it comes time for reassemble, i shall take pics then
Cheers mate.. eally apriciate ppl like you who are out here to help, not critisise.. top job!
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Old 31-08-05, 20:29   #9
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no problems mate, i try to make friends with everyone, thats all
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Old 02-09-05, 17:55   #10
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OR just use DYNAMAT! works a treat! my boot rattled like a slu.T i dynamatted it and not a single rattle anymore, crisp as ever, and sounds even better then before, outside the car with boot closed sounds awesome, clean clear bass!
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Old 02-09-05, 23:26   #11
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this was a guide to help ppl that cant get dynamat, or just want to do it with household items ( to an extent )
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Old 03-09-05, 01:47   #12
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mine rattles like hell i noticed my frame of my boot lid is coming away from my actully boot lid.

how do i fix that??
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Old 03-09-05, 08:46   #13
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the boot lid is stuck to the frame with urerthane

simply buy a turbe, and go around all of the spots where there is no urethane sticking out, with the nozzle cut a small bit off on an angle and feed it in, also you might want to feed the urethane in the slots on the frame as it will then feed into any gaps

ill buy a tube of urethane and do it on mine so u get the idea
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Old 04-09-05, 18:31   #14
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pics uploaded now
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Old 04-09-05, 23:48   #15
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love the new pics, much easyer to seee what to do now
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Old 05-09-05, 02:01   #16
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thanks dude i did this not long ago works a treat however when i put my boot latch all the way down and shut the boot it wouldnt open again!! i had to get some mates to help me lift it off as i turned the key!! :S great article though thanks
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Old 05-09-05, 08:17   #17
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the boot latch yould have been turned too far left or right? it only has to be on a slight angle and it wont open... i did it yesterday, had to go through the taillight hole with a screwdriver and open it from the inside
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Old 08-09-05, 01:14   #18
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haha ok so if its dead square should be sweet? i'll have another crack at it another time cause thats where ALOT of the rattle is. thanks dude
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Old 10-09-05, 22:44   #19
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Good effort allthough I would have to disagree with siliconing the moulds to the panels.

every vl i have seen this done on looks ****house because it is inevitable that the mould breaks away from the panel and then the silicon can be seen.

Greg
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Old 16-09-05, 11:23   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hsvtrev
Good article, I have lost 2 boot locks from my 15" Earthquake dam it.
I lost two Solex's...boo hooo
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Old 16-01-06, 19:33   #21
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arent they a bitch the solex boot locks to fit properly.
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Old 15-02-06, 22:44   #22
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I got 2 JL 12's and they make a fair few rattles. Most of the bootlid detached itself from the frame, so I got a tube of expanding foam and chucked through it.....bad idea tho coz now it looks really messy LOL!!

Also the badge on my boot got worked loose and chipped the paint around it. And also oneday when I put my bootlid back on (took it off to get some rust fixed), it was a little more to the right then it should of been.....as soon as I cranked the JL's for a while I realised the side of the boot came in contact with the panel and chipped some paint.....grrrr......I wish I put a clear on now lol :P

I think the only major rattle I have now from the stereo is the boot rattling, but stops when pressure is put onto it....so I might try wat was mentioned above about moving that bit down that the latch latches to.
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Old 16-02-06, 15:46   #23
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the bootlid from wat frame? frame? huh
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Old 16-02-06, 19:23   #24
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support frame that the skin is glued to
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Old 16-02-06, 20:44   #25
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a question for some who may kno... i put some raggs in the bootlid to stop the boot lock from ratlling and filled all the frame up with old rags.. now the boot lids heavier and the boot keeps falling...

is there a way to fix this? or should i ditch the rags and seal the frame up?

and wat do i do about the lock?
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