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Old 05-06-04, 12:17   #1
scary
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Converting your Interior from Executive to Calais (Series II)

*Updated 10th Jan 2005*
-Happy New Year!
-After receiving the roof lining, interior lights and roof handles from Dump_pipe, i have now finishes the interior of the calais conversion!
Installation of the roof lining now added

*Updated 12th Nov 2004*
Removal of some "ntsearch" statements which somehow embedded
themselves into the document when i had a virus - all cleaned up now

*Updated 12th Oct 2004*
Installation of the rear headrests with dimensions

*Updated 5th July 2004 (Only Minor)*
-Note the conversion was done using only Series II components!
I am unsure of any differences between the Series I & II models
-Headrests have now been installed and the addition is almost complete.
-Calais door moulds have been purchased and are awaiting delivery
-The section on hooking up the power loom to the existing fuse
box will be finished on Tuesday (as promised to dima )
-Sorry for the slowness, I have just been organising a respray of the car
and pics of that should be up in the next few weeks!

Holden VL Commodore Calais Conversion - Interior

Note: The article is not finished but will be completed soon. I thought I will get most of the information out there so that people can use it asap. (4th June 2004)

This technical article is going to be detailed and hence, will be long. I will try and cover everything but I doubt I will. My first piece of advice when converting the VL to electric windows is to try and gain as much information about it as possible, so hopefully this article should help. Also, if you are able to, at least take down notes or remove the electrics, loom and mechanisms from the car your are purchasing it from. This is unlikely but it helped me a hell of a lot.

You can improvise on this conversion any way you want…. perhaps you just want the front windows electronic, you can install new interior trim and not necessarily use the Calais trim, you may choose not to have electronic mirrors and so on – all depending on your time and budget.

I will be writing this article assuming you want to do a full Calais interior conversion which is what I did to my car, but I will try my best to break it down into sections that you may want to skip or read through.

The parts needed

2 * Power window motors for the front doors. These have arms connected to the electric motor.
2 * Power window motors for the rear doors. These have the motor which is connected to a wheel
which winds or unwinds a wire cable which is then connected to the window.
2 * Electric side mirrors
1 * centre console switch cluster which controls all four windows
2 * switches (one for each of the rear doors NB: the front doors do not have a switch in the door,
these use the centre console switchboard)
1 * switch cluster for controlling the electric side mirrors
4 * central locking solenoids and their accompanying wire bars for connection into the exiting door
assembly
4 * Calais door trims
2 * Calais front seats


1 * rear Calais seat
1 * Wiring loom – the VL came with three (3) looms which were used for the different models.


Retrieving the loom from the wreck can be a bit tricky but basically, the loom we want runs to all four doors for the power windows, runs to the centre console near the handbrake for the central power windows switch, the central locking, incorporates the cruise control as well (something I haven’t hooked up as the wreck I got my interior from had damage to the control solenoid in the engine bay), and runs through the firewall into the existing fuse box to be wired up with the existing loom. Make sure you get some plugs as well which block water from getting into the doors and chassis but along the wires to be passed through.
Possibly new carpet to match the colour of the rest of the interior (blue carpet in my case)
Possibly new instrument cluster and/or dash
Possibly new roof lining, sun visors, rear quarter panel coverings, door seals and door linings




Tools will include:
- Socket set (definitely need 8, 10 and 12mm sockets)
- Rivet gun and some good quality, good sized rivets
- Various screw drivers
- Hammer and even chisel
- Labeling pen/pencil, containers (Chinese food plastic boxes work best)
- Powerful drill with some real thick and thin drill bits
- CRC/WD40 (there is no point putting all this in having it seize up in a month)
- Door hinge remover (essential)
- Allen key set (for the front seats)
- Coat hanger (helps passing through the wires)
- Quite possibly soldering iron, solder, wire stripper, electric tape, zip ties if you are going to wire the loom yourself to the existing fuse box (not that hard if you have some soldering experience)
- Multimeter


Looking back…

I converted my car to Calais interior over about 4-5 full (24hour) days for a couple of weekends. Get yourself as familiar as possible with the Calais interior. Once you get going, you will understand what needs to be done and how to do it, but obviously, it is getting started which is the hard thing. You do need patience, an urge to have electric windows and willing to keep going when the tough get going. Getting half way and realizing you don’t want to go any further will be costly, frustrating and you will be ever so pissed! Set yourself goals each time you work on the car and try and make it possible. Each time I did work, I told myself, okay, this door will be converted today. Don’t push yourself to do too much either, you need to pace yourself and if you get tired, have a break.

When buying the components, you can easily test the operation of the electric window motor by simply attaching the wires from the positive and negative of a 12volt battery (cordless drill battery) to the connections on the motor. The +ve and –ve can be connected anyway to the motor (through (i think) the yellow and blue wires), and you will see the arms move. This way, you will know that you are buying a working motor.

The Process

Part 1: Out with the old, in with the new

So now that you know what you want to convert, you need to take out the existing gear which you want to change. Since I changed everything, I needed to take out everything. First thing to do is get yourself some good containers and mark and label everything!



Seats:
To remove the seats, there are four Allen key bolts attaching the seat rail to the floor/chassis. They will be very stiff – applying WD40 a few days prior will definitely help loosen them up for removal. I also find hitting the Allen keys gently with a hammer can help the movement. Unwind these bolts anticlockwise to remove and put the bolts in a container.

To remove the rear seat, pull the bottom half of the seat out first by pulling the bottom section up from where it joins the back section. The back section should be slid upwards towards the rear window for its removal.

*ADDED 12th Oct 2004*
Installation of the rear headrests

The brackets needed to support the rear headrests can either be sourced from a wrecked vl or some could quite easily be made up. In either case, they can be welded or bolted to the chassis in order for the headrests to be supported in them on the seat. The following diagram shows the dimensions for the placement of the brackets in order to sit nicely in the holes in the seat.



*End of addition*

*Added 10th Jan 2005*
Installation of the roof lining

You will need:
Beer


19mm socket
Flathead and Phillips Screwdriver

Turned out much easier than i thort! After removing the door seals from all of the doors, you will find that the roof lining can firstly be removed by pulling it out from the front pillars by pulling the material towards the front windscreen. There is a plastic strip which simply holds the material to the frame of the car.
Once the front section has been removed, you will find that there are metal rods which can be bent downwards (after using some pliers to bend back some metal tabs which hold the metal rods in place) and the lining will slowly begin to fall.



Then you will need to remove the sunvisors by simply undoing the screws, remove the seatbelt bolts by undoing the bolts and the little coat hangers by pushing a plastic plug through it and the hanger will be able to be removed.
The lining is also held in by two screws above the rear quarter panel windows which need to be undone (or in my case, rip the ******* coz its only going in the bin.)
It will also need to be ripped (i mean untucked) from the rear window seal.
Simply reverse the order to install the new roof lining - its really that simple!

Before:


After:



*End of addition*

Centre console:
To remove the carpet, the centre console needs to be removed. There are three screws in the bottom of the centre container which need to be removed. Depending on the manual or auto gearbox, the shifter surrounding cover needs to be removed accordingly. The centre console should then be shifted flat and back towards the rear of the car to detach it from metal clips around the shifter.

Carpet:
There may be some black plugs around the edge of the carpet holding the carpet
down. These are best removed with some needle nose pliers or normal pliers. The carpet should now be able to be removed, leaving a pink piece of paper behind. This paper details the features of your car and if it is missing, your carpet has been removed once before.





Part 2: Installation of the wiring loom

This is the best and easiest time to install the wiring loom. There isn’t any real installation of it – it is more just the process of lying the loom down and getting it all sorted out and ready for connection into the doors.

Following is the picture of the wiring loom and how it needs to be set out.


If you haven’t removed the carpet, I’m sure it is still quite easy to lay the loom around the edges of the chassis, ensuring the cable has plenty of slack to reach into the door. However, I think it is advisable to remove the centre console to place the cabling behind the air-conditioning section of the dash, which would be much easier than passing through the entire section of cable for the driver’s side of the loom through a little passage if the centre console was left in place. There is one main plug connected to the loom, which needs to be located somewhere near the passengers feet for its connection up through the firewall and into the fuse box. Also note that if the side mirrors are to be used, ensure the plug on the loom for the operation of the mirrors is located near the ignition key but behind the paneling, as there is a section where the mirror operational switch can be located.

The plug I was just previously talking about connects directly to the existing wiring loom. The plug looks like this…




These are the schematics for the plug if you do not receive any loom which is needed to plug into the fuse box.

INSERT PICTURE WITH LABELLING OF PLUG

From here on, things may get confusing on the wiring side of things. This depends mainly on what you did or did not receive for incorporation of the new loom into the existing loom. I will run through this as if you have not received any more loom components, apart from the main loom which we have already placed into the car. This will also be difficult for me as I received the majority of the loom, including the central locking lock and unlocking relays, power window connection and fuse holders. Actually, pictures are better than words so here is a picture describing the connection of the new loom into the existing loom.

INSERT PICTURE WITH WIRE CONNECTIONS!!!!


Now, getting this incorporated into the loom isn’t hard, but a bit fiddly as there isn’t much room underneath the loom for soldering. Firstly, DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. Now, unscrew the fuse holder from the fuse box inside the engine bay and lift it up as high as possible (being very delicate – these things are old!) to allow yourself some room to get underneath it and do some soldering and connecting of wires, as shown in the above diagram. The best way to test if this is working is to plug something in. The easiest thing to do would be to plug in the side mirrors operational switch and the side mirror into its associates switch. If it works, I’m sure you will be over the moon and you are lucky, but if it doesn’t, this will be the most likely path. I suggest the following process
1) is your battery plugged in? is it charged?
2) recheck all connections according to the diagram I supplied
3) use the multimeter – put the black wire to the body and the red wire to the loom where the side mirror is to be connected – is there a voltage when you are playing with the side mirror operational switch? if so, perhaps the side mirror is faulty.
4) plug in the other side mirror – if working, there may be a break in the wires – if not working, check for voltage and if there is no voltage, recheck the connection in the fuse box
5) if still not working, send me a pm, post a topic in calaisturbo.com or ask someone for help

Part 3: Installing the Electric Window Motors

Front Doors
The first door I would tackle if the passenger door. The front doors (in my case) were much easier to install and gives you some confidence to do the rest.
1) wind the window down and then remove the handle by unclipping a metal clip which holds it on from the back. then remove the plastic surrounds around the door handle, lock switch and the black plastic cover which goes around the side mirror adjuster.
2) remove the inner door trim of the passenger door so as to expose the plastic dust cover
3) remove the plastic dust cover carefully – you want to reuse it
4) remove the window seal now as it makes it easier for the removal of the window later.
5) undo the 2 bolts to the middle left of the door. this holds a metal bar where an arm slides along.
6) drill out the 4 rivets in the door which hold the window regulator device to the door. do this carefully enough so as not to push the metal surrounding the rivet in too much. this is because next time you put a new rivet in, the rivet might be sitting in too far and the glass will hit the support beam inside the door. This happened to me on the drivers door and its an annoying thing to fix.
7) the device will fall slightly and then comes the tricky part of detaching it from the glass. I found the easiest way was to tilt the side of the glass towards the rear of the car up, and then slide the device arms off the railing of the window.
8) now remove the glass by pulling it up and inwards – meaning it should be removed on the inside-side of the door.
9) a friend may be needed for the next step but if one is not available, use a jack under the door to hold it up so that when you remove the hinges, you can grab the door before it falls. However, a friend is highly recommended.
Using the door hinge remover, insert the bar through the top of the bottom hinge and screw the nut on underneath. Use a hammer to tap the extension part of the door hinge remover device upwards – it can be a long and difficult process so spray the joins with plenty of WD40 which can help. Now, remove the top hinge. Slide the bar through the bottom of the top hinge and tighten the nut on the other side. Now knock the extension part of the door hinge remover device downwards to remove the hinge. Once this is done, the door will fall so be careful. Carpet on the ground might help.



10) the next few steps will take a little while and involves drilling holes in the door and chassis to pass the cables through. Since we are dealing with the passenger door, we will have to remove the computer from its harness so as not to damage it in the process. The location of the drilled holes can theoretically be anywhere, but it is recommended to place them in the same place as the factory locations and the holes should be directly opposite each other to avoid closing the door on excess cable. I found the best way to make the holes large enough (approximately just under an inch in diameter) was to firstly use a hole punch to mark the place to drill. This process applies to both the door and the chassis. Next, drill a small hole to get the motion happening and increase in drill bit sizes until you have used your biggest drill bit. At this stage, you probably have about a centimeter to go. I used all sorts of things to make the hole bigger, usually the extension bar of my socket set and a hammer to stretch out the hole. Paint is likely to flake here but you shouldn’t worry as it is firstly hard to see and secondly, the rubber grommets to be inserted should cover up most of the chipped paint.


11) Okay, now comes the time to reattach the door to the chassis. Using your friend to hold the door up to the hinges, now could be the best time to pass through the cables through the hole in the chassis and through the hole in the door.
12) Put the top hinge in first using the door hinge remover, followed by the lower hinge.
13) Now we can put the electric window motor into the frame of the door and line it up with the holes where the rivets are missing.
14) Use some strong, stainless steel rivets and rivet the motor to the door
15) Insert the glass and tilt it accordingly to get the bottom rail of the window onto the rails of the motor. Remember, there should be an arm spare which is to be connected to the metal rail held by bolts which we firstly removed.
16) slide the last arm onto the metal bar and bolt it to the frame.
17) install the rubber seal that goes around the window frame.
18) plug in the wires (tan and white? plug) to the motor and plug in the centre switch controller into the centre console for operation and test the window. It should be operational. If not, test the connection of the wires as described previously.
19) At this point, you can attach the side mirrors by screwing in the three screws and plug in its associated cable.
20) Also, it is highly recommended to use cable ties and cable tie the wires to the side of the door, because you will not want loose cables getting caught on the window as it is going up and down.
21) Reapply the dust cover
22) reapply the new Calais door trim


The exact process can be repeated for the drivers door (minus the removal of the computer as it isn’t there!). However, it is advisable to leave the drivers window till last to make sure the rest are working, otherwise you could be stuck with no window for a while.

Rear Doors
Follow the process for the rear doors up until step 15) as described in the Front Doors section. This is because the device used to operate the rear door is different to the front doors, because there is much less room and hence, a cable system was devised.
Honestly, I found the rear door electric mechanism to install and there was plenty of trial and error. This is because the cable has to wind itself around the cog in a certain way and then be guided around the pulleys in the door for it to be operational. The following diagram may help you to wind the cable around the inside of the door as is required.

INSERT A DIAGRAM OF THE PATH OF THE CABLE FOR REAR DOORS

Once this is done, have the window at the top of the door and screw the brackets on the bottom of the window to the cable. Basically, this hole process is done based on the assumption that the motor was removed from the previous vehicle with the window up/closed. If the window was down, you will know about it when you test the window. Basically, the cable will tie itself in a knot and quite easily unwind itself from the cog. There is no point in me saying that this will go well, because it usually won’t. You will have to learn from the mistakes you make. If this happens, you need to assume the window was down and repeat the process, but have the window down when you attach it to the cable.

This is why it would be brilliant if you could remove this from the previous vehicle, so that you can note the position of the window and mark on the cable where the window railing was attached to the cable.

Now you can continue with steps 20) to 22) as described previously. You will also be able to attach the door switch to the inner door mould.


Part 4: Conclusion

Basically, that this the installation process of the electric windows into you VL. If there are problems with the movement of the glass, try spraying some WD40 along the insides of the door seals as it can help the glass to slide. If there are still problems (usually regarding the rear window operation), it is usually due to the incorrect assembly of the cable and the path in which it travels. If you are really having difficulty, consult someone who knows or a reputable business (such as window tinting business or a mechanic.) Invest in a VL commodore book as well, such as Max Ellery’s or a workshop manual. They are always useful and will probably explain better what I have explained.

I hope you are successful on the conversion to electric windows and if it all fails, you can still take your car to a mechanic who can pick up on what you have done. At least you have taken some of the costs out of the labour.



Some Before and During Pics




Some After Pics



Disclaimer: I have taken every effort to ensure that this article is correct as possible, but I cannot be held responsible for damage in part or whole to yourself or to your vehicle. This information is purely educational, and if there is any error, please let me know so that it can be corrected.

Steven J. (Scary)
Mandurah WA

Last edited by scary; 10-01-05 at 18:45. Reason: Update
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Old 07-06-04, 22:16   #2
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Great thread dude its gona be very helpful to me. Put some info in on removing the dash and all the front panels and bits, plus the roof lining and rear quarter panels and then reinstalling them etc. Im hoping i can do the roof lining myself so shed some light on this if u can
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Old 07-06-04, 23:50   #3
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dam - good point i completely forgot about that!
to tell you the truth, i havent done the roof lining yet as the car i got the interior out of had a sun roof and hence, a hole in the lining. Im actually considering getting a sunroof to use the roof lining.... just one of those pop up ones tho- i cant justify getting a $2000 electric sunroof to save the lining ;-)
the dash is one thing i havent done as it was grey and it sorta matches the blue - atleast it isnt a red dash! but i have painted the parts of the dash blue as you can see in my avatar which sorta matches the exterior paint aswell....and soon to be added is the velour padding on the glovebox which should help blend the grey dash into the blue interior.
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Old 08-06-04, 02:56   #4
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Yeah definately a good thread.. Thumbs up to you.
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Old 08-06-04, 09:26   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scary
[IMG]Rear Doors
Follow the process for the rear doors up until step 15) as described in the Front Doors section. This is because the device used to operate the rear door is different to the front doors, because there is much less room and hence, a cable system was devised.
Honestly, I found the rear door electric mechanism to install and there was plenty of trial and error. This is because the cable has to wind itself around the cog in a certain way and then be guided around the pulleys in the door for it to be operational. The following diagram may help you to wind the cable around the inside of the door as is required.
Steven J. (Scary)
Mandurah WA
I bought a couple of electric motors for my vl berlina, because my old manual wire broke inside the rear passanger door, i took the rear passanger door trim off, drilled out the old, and put the new motor in the door, i cant get any holes to match up. there were 3 rivett holes in the manual, the power motor has 3 aswell, except they are 23, 14 and 19 cm apart, off the top of my head? i asume that the flat side with the gears is sposed to go flush with the inner side of the door, does the motor face the front or back of the door?

i will try get a camera to take some photos. thanks karwalski
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Old 08-06-04, 13:08   #6
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gday karwalski
honestly, off the top of my head i cant remember but would be able to tell you straight away if i saw a picture. Ill try and take a picture tonight to show you how it goes but from what i can remember, there is a pulley on the motor itself and im pretty sure it should be facing towards the front of the car and hence, the flat side of the motor should be on the inner side of the door. Also from what i can remember, the motor sat slighty on an angle which could also be the problem why the holes arent lining up. However, like you said, the electric motor will not be rivetted into the exisitng holes of the manual mechanism, as the manual mechanism is heaps smaller than the larger electric unit... there are holes already there for the electric motor in the executive so i assume they will be there for the berlina. Ill try and get some pics up on that asap.
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Old 08-06-04, 19:46   #7
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Here is a pic of the motor i bought



and here is a picture of my door




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Old 11-06-04, 16:31   #8
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hmmm update
the drivers window fell yesterday.... had to be when i was halfway on a 100kms journey at night and it was ****in cold!
neway, got home to find the damage and the actual motor had snapped the rivets out of the holes!
i suggest buying the most heavy duty stainless steel rivets you can find! luckily the window didnt break or anything and i just riveted the motor back in place...
pics will be up tonight
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Old 11-06-04, 16:54   #9
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i hope this helps to position the motor correctly for rivetting....

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Old 11-06-04, 17:19   #10
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sorry mate i ****ed that image of your motor and door up completely!

the top left rivet i beleive is in the right place but the motor looks like it needs to rotate clockwise a touch for the black cover on top of the motor to be pointing vertical.

Last edited by scary; 11-06-04 at 20:23.
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Old 11-06-04, 17:56   #11
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awesome article, i KNOW that is a good headunit too!
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Old 12-06-04, 15:13   #12
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thanks heaps scary. It took me all up about 2 hours to get the one motor in. Running the cables is near imposible with one person. thanks again

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Old 12-06-04, 19:39   #13
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no probs karwalski
im glad you got it going

good luck!
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Old 21-06-04, 06:57   #14
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scary: man excellent article!! couldnt hav written it up any better myself.

i did the exact same conversion to my exec and am rapped with the way it turned out. howz the back window job hey?? those cables r a bitch to do.
also just a small tip with screwing the glass back onto the cable...make sure the cable is wound around the middle pulley(on the mechanism) only half way either all the way up or all the way down. this is so that the cable doesnt come off the pulleys with the weight of the glass going up/down.

what hav u done about putting in the rear headrest brackets?? i got the wreckers to cut mine out of a calais shell then i cleaned/filed the scrapy bits of metal off them and marked them where they had to go. i then pop riveted them in place. note: they must be pretty damn straight or else the headrests will sit crooked and they wont sit flush on top of the back seat.
ALSO if u can, make sure u get the brackets out of a S2 calais shell, as ur interior is S2 and the brackets r different.


good 2 c someone else that has come to the same success WELL DONE!

PS. headlining is a piece of piss. uve already done the hard yards the rest is easy.

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Old 21-06-04, 20:45   #15
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heheh u wouldnt beleive it scott... im am right in the middle of finishing off the headrests.... ive taken pictures and i should be updating the article tonight on that topic.... dimensions will be shown aswell

thanx man

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Old 06-08-04, 00:26   #16
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This **** is awesome... This is going to be so helpful when I get all my calais interior parts... Congradulations to scary on an awesome thread... KEEP IT GOING
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Old 06-08-04, 14:22   #17
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cheers mate
im really sorry for the slow progress, i have just finished spray painting my car so pics of that should be up soon aswell as more pics of the finished interior....
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Old 06-08-04, 14:35   #18
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Quote:
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cheers mate
im really sorry for the slow progress, i have just finished spray painting my car so pics of that should be up soon aswell as more pics of the finished interior....
Hey, where do i unpug/plug the wiring loom from the drivers door that goes through the body?

Trying to get a door off but the bottom hinge is ****n stuck...

got to remove wiring from the door, but dont know where it disconnects...
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Old 06-08-04, 15:09   #19
Morgz85
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vlt-dreamer, check this thread out:
http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showth...connect+wiring
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Old 06-08-04, 15:13   #20
vlt-dreamer
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yeh thanks - doesn state where the main loom that runs into the soor is pluggewd in, but seeing as i am throwing the door away aill justy pull all cables out etc

Thanks mate...
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Old 06-08-04, 15:18   #21
Morgz85
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if all else fails...wire cutters....your new best friend
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Old 06-08-04, 15:19   #22
vlt-dreamer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Morgz85
if all else fails...wire cutters....your new best friend
lol - NOOOOOO!!!!

Just replacing a dinted door, still need the wiring etc et...
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Old 06-08-04, 16:12   #23
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nice work scary

i have done the conversion, all apart from the hood lining. can anyone tell me any measurements for where to silastic the brackets for rear passenger lights?? i just want to silastic them up before i put in the hood lining, not f**k around putting the lining in to find the position of the brackets and then having to pull the lining out again

regards

mark
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Old 06-08-04, 23:43   #24
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**** me what alot of stuffing around, sell your executive and buy a factory Calais.

Good article tough.
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Old 07-08-04, 10:34   #25
scary
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heya vlt-dreamer
the wires going into the drivers door are not 'plugged' into anything, so to speak. The whole loom for the power windows / side mirrors / central locking is one circuit, without any breaks in it. So like Morgz85 said, you can either cut the wires (which wouldnt help at all becuase you still need to get the plugs out of the door for the side mirrors and central locking) so just pull the wires and plugs through the hole in the door.
Good luck!
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