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Old 09-09-05, 21:35   #1
Alsynon
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If you have rust in your boot channel and are not made of money this is a quick guide on how to repair it cheaply...
It wont be show perfect, but then again this won't apply to most show cars as they are scared of the rain....

1. Boot rubber off and clean it etc....

2. Attack the rust with a wire wheel on a drill / grinder.

3. See if there is any metal left.

(If its rusty all the way through to under the rear window go buy the panel and learn to love welding upside down in a confined place, or try to find someone willing to do it.....)

4. If there is some, doesnt need to be a lot, hit it with some rust converter.

5. Get some 50mm masking tape and tape underneath and up over the edge till even with where the top of the metal should be.

6. Lay some Fibreglass on the inside of the tape, the real stuff not the fibre reinforced bog, 2 -3 good layers will be sufficient for the repair and 1 layer over the rest for insurance.

7. Remove what tape will peel off then sand channel and make smoothish.

8. Repaint

9. Put rubber back on and all evidence of fibreglass dissapears.

10. Buy 10 cartons of JD and Cola with the money you saved.

(If anyone is looking close enough to the inside of your boot to notice the repairs, you should have drugged them properly before putting them in there.)

Everything you need to do this should only cost you about $60-80 depending on where you shop.

Remember that acetone is your friend as it will dissolve all fibreglass mishaps, but also your enemy as it will attack your paint...
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Old 20-09-05, 18:41   #2
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top stuff mate, exactly what i needed... will do... just a quick question, you know the masking tape, i dont really understand where u put it... could you post a pic, pointing to the section your ment to tape up... cheers
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Old 20-09-05, 20:35   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alsynon

If its rusty all the way through to under the rear window go buy the panel and learn to love welding upside down in a confined place, or try to find someone willing to do it.....

hey. just wondering where you can get such panel. mine has 2 little holes in it and it leaks when it rains so i want to fix it.
i have been tempted to just bog it up but there will be visable evidence from the outside of the car. i would like to to be nice and neat
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Old 21-09-05, 08:47   #4
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Rarespares is where my replacement panel came from. 120 dollars I think it was.
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Old 23-09-05, 15:44   #5
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Whats the name of that particular part bax?
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Old 23-09-05, 16:34   #6
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Its a "rear VL cowel piece includig drip rail" or something along those lines, you can buy them from most parts stores, panel places or Holden...
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Old 23-09-05, 18:25   #7
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Yeah that sounds about right..
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Old 03-03-06, 11:09   #8
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this is a really good tech article - just tore off my boot rubber to reveal a small amount of rust, which is unusual for my car. 1/2 an hour cleaning off years of grime, then the same amount of time again attacking the rust. finally hit it with the rust converter and now we play the waiting game.
kudos for the thread
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Old 18-09-06, 16:11   #9
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if its only a few tiny holes or cracks get something galvinised (i used a LARGE washer) tape it to the underside with a bit of a gap.

get a soldering iron, and solder, solder up the hole, then sand it back smooth and paint
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Old 18-09-06, 20:12   #10
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if your gonna do your own rust repairs, and dont want the rust 2 come back twice as bad in 6 months, make sure u clean off as much rust as possible with the wire wheel ect. as stated then use fibre fill(where u only add hardner 2 it), not fibreglass where u add catalist and s*** as it can be messy and f*** up your paint something chronicif u spill.(also fibre fill u can sand back flat)
the rest has already been explained b4
hope this helps bit more, as most ppl dont want more rust coming back from their own little rust repairs
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Old 10-10-06, 20:39   #11
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yes, and if your goign to cut the metal ot of your car i would suggest goint half way down the parcel shalf metal, as thats covered by the shalf and it gives you more area to work with when welding, probably best to do it with an oxy and some filler rod.
dont warp the metal.
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Old 01-12-06, 20:24   #12
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rare spares in baywater have the hole new boot channel piece for $120 jus gotta get da old one cut out n da new 1 welded in!!
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Old 01-12-06, 22:42   #13
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to get one welded in, i got a quote, i supply the part, and its just primed, i remove and reinstall the rear window.... $400!
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Old 26-12-06, 12:26   #14
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well think about it, it has to line up properly then be welded without distortion or warping, quite a bit of time and effort involved in JUST welding
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Old 26-12-06, 20:34   #15
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yeah... brace the car, under the parcel shelf, and boot, using a thin grinding disk, cut the sides of the old panel out, and then the edge near the parcel shelf, sit the new panel on... tack weld it in place, making sure it looks perfect, then run some light welds down it, grind the welds back a little giving a smoothish finish, tape up the rear of the vehicle, and spray primer on it....

oh, by the way, im learning to weld, just so i can do this...
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Old 28-12-06, 13:03   #16
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Quote:
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to get one welded in, i got a quote, i supply the part, and its just primed, i remove and reinstall the rear window.... $400!
man wherever you went are serious scammers, weve put one of them panels in at work, we cut old one out, we supplyed brand new panel, welded it in, smoothed it, primed it and painted it, did everything, and it was about $500

oh and if you weld it properly a new one will not warp, u just have to tex screw it into place and use lock jaw clamps then weld, simple
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Old 28-12-06, 14:05   #17
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i got quoted .. 700 bucks

Last edited by SELO XST 045; 31-10-13 at 23:45.
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Old 03-01-07, 00:12   #18
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hmmm if they are scamers, why did they have a ferrari, and 2 porsches's in the workshop? i not gonna goto just anyone....
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Old 24-04-08, 14:22   #19
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we just fixed the channel on our red one with fibreglass, there were 6 holes initially but they were all small. i had everything i needed so it ended up costing nothing. here is before, i'll get after up later today:
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Old 24-04-08, 19:14   #20
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mine was the same as above but worse
just bent some plate up welded it in and filled the bottom of the channel with weld, grinded that flat then painted, automotive seilcon etc etc
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Old 25-04-08, 11:45   #21
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finished product:

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Old 25-04-08, 14:01   #22
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Turned out pretty good^^ I have used that metal bog with metal fibre and it also does the job.

Awesome for sealing holes etc.
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Old 25-04-08, 14:34   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fleas
Turned out pretty good^^ I have used that metal bog with metal fibre and it also does the job.

Awesome for sealing holes etc.
K&H Metal Mend?

Yeah I used that stuff too on my white car to repair the boot, squished it in through the big rust holes to make a perfect seal that will never fall out.

I had a friend that it was that bad there wasnt a gutter channel for like 10cm's ... metal mend and stacks of masking tape... waited for it to get a bit less flimsy, and wrapped the tape in and around the metal mend and rebuilt the channel, easy once its in the tape to like mould it with your hands...

Good write up!

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Old 25-04-08, 20:34   #24
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K&H Metal Mend?
Yeah it is.

Came with the hardener etc. You can pretty much mould it to whatever you want and hardens up quickly.

It's the best I've ever used, for less than $30 you can't go wrong.
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Old 25-04-08, 21:15   #25
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i have this stuff called rust inhabitor its great for stoping rust as soon as it starts i use that on all the tiny spots i find then after a day sand back use again
prep the surface and paint over works great
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