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Old 09-11-12, 17:40   #1
bigrob
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high compression rb30e help

Something a little different from the usual:
Looking at raising the CR of my engine to build a decent-ish NA engine. Options are: shaving the head 20thou (any ideas on how high this will raise it to?), or if anyone can recommend any pistons that would suit to bump it up a bit, I'm trying to get maybe around 10.5:1. This will be matched with a nice port and polish, and a Camtech CT503 517 cam. Aiming for around 130atw, although more would be nice, possibly going to go nistune and slightly bigger injectors. Thoughts, ideas, and what I should expect?
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Old 09-11-12, 17:43   #2
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I think SYK086 did a high comp N/A RB30 motor for his car and there was a purple/silver VL Calais with an N/A RB30/26 combo. I'd wait for them to reply or speak with a tuner e.g. Maatouks as i know they do Hi Comp N/A RB30 motors now
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Old 09-11-12, 21:20   #3
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any ideas what power figures they made? I'd like to stay sohc, but twin cam isn't out of the picture.

---------- Post added 09-11-12 at 22:29 ----------

been having a read of this:
http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/for...omp-sohc-rb30/
informative, but a bit inconclusive. Anyone have any more details on using rb25 pistons for example? I don't want to spend much money if possible, and it's NA so no need for forgies.
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Old 12-11-12, 10:37   #4
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anyone? How much will shaving the head increase my compression by, I went to a shop and they said 20thou should be safe, anyone got anything to add to/say about this? If I get decent compression just by shaving I won't bother changing pistons, just want a bit more
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Old 12-11-12, 12:07   #5
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you could calculate it, someone might know exactly but if you know the cc of the combustion chamber standard then subract roughly the area at 20 thou in mm, decent head gaskets tell you the the cc of gasket at 1 and 1.2mm
not much help but just an idea
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Old 12-11-12, 21:46   #6
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that thing sounds mental, much want! Yeah I've been googling it a bit, my cam will be quite nice for what I want, a little above gts2 spec without needing too many revs and being a hassle. I'm planning on doing a nice polish job, inside of plenum, runners etc as well as a bit of porting, nothing dramatic. So you say 25det pistons will give me around 10:1? Can anyone back that up? Might be worth a shot, and I'll deck the head to give a bit more probably. See how much I can push the good old 30e without going twin cam, it's weird I know but I have a bit of an attachment to sohc and I like to have a car that's a bit surprising
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Old 11-02-13, 21:59   #7
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hi/comp really wont make that much of a difference if your going about it the way you are.

you have to understand compression is only really determined by the amount of fuel and air mixture in the cylinder on compression stroke being compacted into the compression chamber itself, the quickest way to achive more comp is by shaving the head maybe 20 thou to be safe, but then again if ur head isnt pocket ported and cleaned up u eliminate even maximising your 'mod' to its full potential.
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Old 11-02-13, 23:42   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigrob View Post
that thing sounds mental, much want! Yeah I've been googling it a bit, my cam will be quite nice for what I want, a little above gts2 spec without needing too many revs and being a hassle. I'm planning on doing a nice polish job, inside of plenum, runners etc as well as a bit of porting, nothing dramatic. So you say 25det pistons will give me around 10:1? Can anyone back that up? Might be worth a shot, and I'll deck the head to give a bit more probably. See how much I can push the good old 30e without going twin cam, it's weird I know but I have a bit of an attachment to sohc and I like to have a car that's a bit surprising

I did some numbers the other day for a N/A RB30E conversion so they will be the same. 0.5mm (20thou)thinner headgasket would increase the comp by just over 0.2:1. Be the same if you machined the head or the block.

I think the NA is 9.5:1 assuming it hasn't been machined already.
you'd need to take off more than 20thou to get the comp to 10:1 if thats what you are after.
Before you do anything, measure the piston to valve clearance regardless. Only measurement will give you any element of safety.

Best check with an engine builder to chose suitable compression ratio for the fuel you use, and then see if it can be done with the choice of camshaft.
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Old 12-02-13, 17:10   #9
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N.a comp is 9.0:1... turbo is 7.8:1
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Old 12-02-13, 20:02   #10
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That sounds about right, thats why a 2.5mm-3mm gasket will drop the comp about 1 - 1.2 points to around the 7.8-8.0 mark to get set for a turbo.
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Old 12-02-13, 22:42   #11
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cometic motha fu kazz dont go crazy thick a 1.3 will do the job nicely if your going turbo
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Old 13-02-13, 07:05   #12
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cometic motha fu kazz dont go crazy thick a 1.3 will do the job nicely if your going turbo

He's not.
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Old 13-02-13, 10:11   #13
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He ll spend more money trying to achieve more comp were as forced induction would be the cheaper easier alternative .
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Old 14-02-13, 16:18   #14
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1.3 is standard thickness
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Old 16-03-13, 18:28   #15
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re - high compression RB30

Quote:
Aiming for around 130atw
My RB30DE was probably putting out that sort of power (actually, I'd say it would've been, I was able to get up to 180 km/h in 3rd gear), the listed power for an RB30DE is that, an RB25DE is 110RWKW, for the VVT motor.

I was thinking about building a fresh motor using 9.0:1 compression RB26 pistons (0.020" oversized) in my spare RB30 block and getting that decked by 0.5mm to give a compression ratio of around 10:1 with a piston to deck height of -0.52mm, or if I didn't get that decked, the compression ratio would sit at 9.6:1 with a piston to deck height of -1.02mm.

The twin cam head would be the cheapest option which would yield the same or better results as if you were to use the single cam head and bigger cam.

I don't know what it is with the boys in Newcastle, they seem to have a problem with me since I whipped their backsides in my VL (the other person was driving an EF Falcon, yeah Ford so probably "THERE YOU GO !!!!").

What I mean is both the Commodores have aluminium heads & blocks in them, etc, they seem to hate anything that's not an all iron costruction like they're all backward and I'm UnAustralian or some crap like that !!!!
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Old 12-06-13, 21:28   #16
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I personally built a n/a rb26/30 (personally machined and assembled)

225.6hp, 10.75:1 intentionally mis matched cams, flow bench porting, blue printing, ram tubes etc



being different can be expensive, (i spent over 14k on just the motor) and eventually you get over it so its for sale;

http://www.calaisturbo.com.au/showthread.php?t=269929

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Old 25-06-13, 21:17   #17
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you got any more specs on the cam dude?

sounds similar to what i got from camtech

but keep in mind, which is also what the bloke told me that shaved my head and he has a point

you can shave the head but no point if your bottom end has a few hundred thousand ks on it and is pretty worn, luckily my bottom end had 1mm over size pistons from being freshly recoed all i had to do was change the rings which they didnt even need to be changed but i did anyway since the engine was out and the head off

new bearings all round aswell as rings and atleast you know that its 99% good to cope with the higher compression

if you are unsure if your bottom end needs bearings etc, take everything to the engine builder or engineering shop and they should be able to help you providing they dont just want your money, luckily enough the shop i just "walked into off the street" was full of top blokes and the owner was down to earth and knew exactly what i wanted and he gave it to me, at a decent price i reckon too

Head shaved
new camtech springs
2 new sets of rings (because i broke one and had to buy another full set)
full set of bearings, mains and conrod
camtech cam, not a re ground cam but a new cam
3 way and 4 way cuts on the valve seats and the valves cut to suite
head pressure tested etc
run in and assembly honey

all for just over a grand, which IMHO is a top price considering the cam alone cost $400 and his after support was absolutely awesome, you dont get guys that help you over the phone these days, its usually "youll have to bring it in and have us look at it"

where this bloke sat there for hours on end running me through this n that down to the last nut n bolt, end result

turn the key and the thing purred like a kitten

Best part of it, feels like a stock VLT and its NA
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Old 26-06-13, 10:23   #18
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Rb25de pistons(can't remember what comp t gave but was very reasonable)
Shaved head
Aggressive cam
Extractors
Cat back
Intake manifold of your choice

Should give some decent power na

And then nitrous for when you want some real power
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Old 01-08-13, 17:02   #19
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whats good comp ratio wit rb26/30 trying get 9.8 wit unleaded fuel
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Old 20-08-13, 16:34   #20
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I have a built NA motor. it made 144.3 rwkw dropping off and running rich at 4.5k.

Camtech stage 2 cam (1500-5500)
ported heads (home job brothers first attempt came out good)
20 thou off the head
Extractors 200 cell cat into a 2.5 sports.
XF thorttle body, 76mm intake pipeing with a k&n panel filter.
VLT mx7 gearbox.
VLT turbo diff.
Replaced clutch fan with thermo fan.
Full rebuilt engine with upgraded valve springs.

went for a dyno run on low timing as my injector duty was at 90% with the aftermarket ecu. estimated to make 150rwkw but sparkplug rattled loose. Will hopefully get another tuner and looking at 155rwkw. Yet to be down the dragstrip but hopeing for a mid to low 14. sat next to an NA FG xr6 6 speed manual with zaust and cold air with 4 cylinder low on compression. also sits next 32's with FMIC and zaust.
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