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Old 18-06-14, 23:54   #1
F2thaK
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VL problems, even after engine swap and lots of new parts

Trying to get my girl going, just about every part is new or has been recon'd.

I think it may be a fuel problem.

Doesnt start very well when cold. Takes 2 or 3 separate short cranks to start, then must idle for a few minutes or it will stall. Its about the same after an engine swap. (Old engine did have really bad compression though) Now has factory turbo setup and ECU is an NA remapped to turbo. When I plug in regular NA ECU it barely idles. Should it idle fine?

Im thinking either ECU, internal fuel pump, engine loom or fuel pump wiring is the problem.

Cold start valve has been cleaned and adjusted which helped a little.

Fuel pumps were replaced around 2 years ago, but I have since ran it out of fuel a few times and run it on fumes a few times. I replaced external yesterday and it seemed a little better, but today its gotten worse, its hesitant, has flat spots, but its intermittent. CAS, dizzy and AFM are all brand new.

Tried clearing the memory of the ECU which did nothing, and ran diagnostics, but no probs there. The LEDs dont seem to light up all the time when not in diagnostics either, its done it a few times but doesnt seem to do it every time. Not sure if this is a sign of it being buggered? Its meant to show air/fuel ratio. Ive inspected and cleaned it internally but looks all good.

Ive spent loads of time and money and its my daily car. I really just need it to be reliable and run properly, I dont need big power. Im getting to my wits end and I love my car but Im starting to feel like Im wasting my $$$ and time.

I really apprentice any help guys, thanks in advance.
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Old 19-06-14, 05:25   #2
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I had a similiar problem few years ago on a n/a stocker.
Wouldn't start when cold but once warmed up no problem at all.
I found theres a wire that basically goes from starter motor to ecu so when you first crank it, the ecu knows to add extra fuel to help start.
I changed nearly everything (engine loom, battery loom, cold start valves etc) to get it to work and funny enough ended up being the starter motor.
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Old 19-06-14, 09:10   #3
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Starter motor is brand new also
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Old 19-06-14, 09:56   #4
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With the cold start, do you turn the key to accessories and wait so the pumps can prime the fuel lines? If you do this and listen you should hear the pump run for a few seconds.
Next thing I'd do, and it might be a pain, but I'd be pulling every plug I can find and checking the pins are clean and not bent. Also check the wires on the fuel pumps, from memory (haven't played with VL's for about 3 years now and my last one was a 5L) they are screw on terminals so could be loose or dirty.
Maybe try another ECU, and get a factory turbo one to match your setup, the N/A one you've had remapped could be dodgy. Never had a turbo 6 so not overly sure if putting an N/A ECU on a turbo setup will run ok or not.
These things are always a pain and can get frustrating, hopefully you can have a win, it's always a good feeling to beat these problems.
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Old 19-06-14, 14:12   #5
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Never used to let pumps prime, I do now. Have checked and cleaned pretty much every plug on the car. External pump connections are good.
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Old 19-06-14, 15:29   #6
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In that case the next step for me would be to try to borrow a factory ECU for a turbo and see if that makes any difference.
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Old 20-06-14, 20:06   #7
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Dont know anyone else with a VL let alone VLT......

got a new internal fuel pump today, will fit it ASAP along with a brand new sender/bracket assembly I acquired.

just did more forum digging and have tested my coolant temp sensor. the same one was on my old engine, it was replaced a while back. it read 1050ohms, meter was set on 2k. cars been sitting for approx 2 hours, ****ing cold outside. apparently it should read 2100-2900 at 20 degrees. ecu didnt say it was faulty when I did diagnostics yesterday, but that figure seems to low to me.
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Old 24-06-14, 00:30   #8
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Check your wiring on the coolant temp sensor as well, I had the same issue with my old engine had replaced starter as well, when I did the changeover to the current engine, I went over the wiring and replaced a few plugs and wire, the wiring on my coolant temp sensor was so hard and brittle that the plastic coating would just crack off, causing a possible short, same as a few injector plugs, now after letting fuel pump prime kicks over straight away.
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Old 24-06-14, 09:31   #9
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CTS it self is all good. Is there a way to test wiring with a multi meter? I'll check for continuity between the 2 wires. Car doesn't blow smoke at all and runs perfect once warmed up, which only takes a few minutes. Double checked cold start valve, all good, even tried by passing, proved nothing.
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Old 24-06-14, 18:00   #10
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a couple of things to try,

1. spray some throttle body cleaner/carby cleaner into the intake before start (if it starts straight away you know its a fuel issue) if it still struggles might be something else.

2. there is a wire from the ecu to the starter to send a signal for cold start, there is a little resister right near the starter motor (its taped up and can be seen once unwrapped, the resistor may be buggered, you can bypass the resistor with a wire to test)

3. the cold start valve sometimes even with cleaning won't help as they are aged now so i would try a new or reconditioned one, (i presume you mean the part at the front of the engine with two hoses going into it and a two wire connector - near the coolant temp sensor). I changed this on a previous vl of mine which had the exact same issue and problem was solved, i did try cleaning it first but didn't help

hope this helps. good luck!
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Old 24-06-14, 19:54   #11
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MxPx VL, thanks

I replaced the CTS plug a while back but with another old one, I just reflowed the solder joins, no improvement. I do have a brand new plug coming. The wire itself seems fine.

----------------------------------------------
Carnal, thanks

1. might try this

2. will look into this

3. I did bypass cold start valve, wouldnt that rule it out?


----------------------------------------------
Now Im almost certain its a failed/incorrectly installed internal pump

Replaced external about a week ago with standard genuine bosch, was quieter than the one that was on there (aftermarket), but as of the last few days its noisy as ****.

It gets higher pitched when I unplug internal pump

http://youtu.be/0pVgnJVu69g
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Old 24-06-14, 20:04   #12
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i'm pretty sure bypassing the cold start valve would be the same as having a faulty one. It's there for the cold start, If you can get your hands on a cheap one might be worth a shot.
the pump does sound pretty loud but in saying that I have heard heaps loud ones without any issues, I think you would have problems all the time not just on cold start if it was a pump issue. But, if in doubt maybe just replace it and keep as a spare!
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Old 24-06-14, 20:12   #13
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have tried 2 cold start valves, when converting to turbo i left the one on the turbo intake manifold which was closed, thought tat was the prob so I put the one off my old engine on that id already cleaned and adjusted but no better....

seems to have a tiny bit of trouble starting when warm and the occasional small miss/hesitation under load but pretty much idles and runs perfect once warm

---------- Post added 24-06-14 at 18:13 ----------

oh i did try a brand new one on my old engine, quite sure it didnt improve anything as I sold it n putt the old one back on

---------- Post added 24-06-14 at 18:34 ----------

reading this page again, (http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index...=Air_Regulator)

I need to check the voltage at the cold start valve plug. If its getting no power it will take much longer to warm up. that cant be all that wrong with it though. I do have another valve I can try but its also closed
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Old 29-06-14, 14:08   #14
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Just confirmed my intank fuel pump has seized, had a GMH replacement but it has no fu..ing nuts and the thread is very odd/course and old pump thread is different. Can buy another VDO pump locally (which is what I had in there before) but its another $81......

Been to bunnings to find suitable nuts with no luck and sent an abusive email to seller of the pump.

Might have a search at work but dont like my chances... If all else fails Ill just buy another pump..................

---------- Post added 29-06-14 at 17:44 ----------

Ended up buying a new VDO kit for $81.

Fitted new fuel sender/internal fuel pump/gasket and some hose.

Problem solved.

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