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Old 01-02-16, 21:16   #1
Tim747
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Help - My VL uses 25L per 100km!

I am nearly ready to give up on this car and put it up for sale. It is costing me over $50 a week to drive around 200km on a full tank just to drive to work and see some people. I average around 8-15km a day.

Work is 7km away, 10 minute drive and yes some traffic lights. And everywhere else is around the corner - around 4-10km driving - literally driving from one suburb to another.

My VL Calais is running a R31 skyline Rb30 and transmission, and the ECU is still from Holden. My mechanic said its fine and the other engine was blowning smoke and said it was not worth rebuilding even though I thought just change the gasket because oil was coming out of the top of the engine, and the trans was stuck in 1st and reverse. And I had him look at my fuel tank and after the roady a few month later and said it needs to be fixed. So I was pretty annoyed he didn't see that during the roady. Then I had the car dyno'd and tuned, and the oxy sensor changed at the same time - my mechanic sent me there to fix my fuel issue too. In doing so it ACHIEVED a record of 274km in about 2-3weeks of driving up and back as normal for approximately half a tank. Then the 3rd fill up since the tune up, it went back to tank about 180km-200km or so you know like really bad again.

My exhuast pipe is black and the bumper has the black stuff on it which it always had.

I did drive the car to Torquay, stayed at a mates house. I put Wynn's engine cleaner in at a full tank fill up and the car did run differently can't say for better or worse. I managed to do 310km over 3 days driving there and around and then back dropping everyone off, and I had a little more than a quarter tank left. SO it used over half a tank which my tank is 50L so 25L for 310km on highway driving. Which works out to off the top of my head 25L divide it by 3 because 100 goes into 300km 3 times and yea you get like 8Litres point something but yea that seems pretty good????

YES
I have researched on CalaisTurbo and JustCommodore posts but just wanted to tell the story of my situation because it is getting costly in repairs and ongoing work which I was prepared to deal with. But paying more than double what I should in running the car is just a complete joke.

Im suspicious its a Air Flow meter connection or the car is stuck in Cold start mode? Thermostat or something is giving off a bad signal.

Thanks for any information I hope I've followed the Forum rule right.
Appreciate it!
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Old 01-02-16, 21:30   #2
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Gday Timmy, in my first Vl turbo (12 years ago) it used to suck fuel! Seems like your car is running rich, I changed my AFM with a known working one and also the O2 sensor and IT fixed the problem! That blackness on your exhaust and bunper is tell tale sign cars running too rich, unburnt fuel!

---------- Post added 01-02-16 at 21:10 ----------

It could also be coolant temp sensor! Plus your tank will be 63 litres not 50

Last edited by deanoVLCT; 01-02-16 at 21:40.
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Old 02-02-16, 11:58   #3
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Could also be fuel pressure regulator. mine went bad once and same thing happened.
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Old 02-02-16, 21:05   #4
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Check the wiring from the ECU to the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS). make sure it isn't corroded or of high resistance.

the ECU pins are 23 Green and pin 26 brown. if you buzz out the wires at less than 0.5ohms it should be ok. some people use to add resistance to the wiring to richen engine up. else check for corrosion in the connector, if its all green or festy looking, you'll need to cut it off and then source another connector. its hard to find connectors that fit with the correct offset locator so best grind or cut the locator off the sensor so any bosch style connector can be wired back up in its place.
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Old 02-02-16, 22:26   #5
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Wow thatnks to everyone that replied. I will take everyones input and comprimise it and pass it on to my mechanic.

Yes it could be Afm, tempmsensor, fuel pressure regulator, or the ECU connections.
Just a heads up I have read heaps on tbis issue and I was expecting to have suggestions around those parts/areas.

Also should i bother to take it to a mechanic or electricain? I do have a short in the car somewhere i discovered.
Today I took out my mirror switch and tried to put another one in working condition and it was smoking so i disconnected it and yea.

I really appreicated everyone replying and giving their advice.

I am worried about the all the cost i could face to fix it.
Wish i could do it myself but i would need proper good pics.

Im located in Thomastown and reservoir if anyone reccomends someone or a shop to handle this with ease.
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Old 02-02-16, 22:30   #6
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Originally Posted by bachig24u View Post
Check the wiring from the ECU to the Coolant Temp Sensor (CTS). make sure it isn't corroded or of high resistance.

the ECU pins are 23 Green and pin 26 brown. if you buzz out the wires at less than 0.5ohms it should be ok. some people use to add resistance to the wiring to richen engine up. else check for corrosion in the connector, if its all green or festy looking, you'll need to cut it off and then source another connector. its hard to find connectors that fit with the correct offset locator so best grind or cut the locator off the sensor so any bosch style connector can be wired back up in its place.
Hi simon, do u work for JPS? Is that a car race tuning shop? Do you know how hard this could be for my mechanic to deal with? And the costs of parts and such? Im so desperate to fix this one fault of it eating petrol..,,im about to give up on it. Also theres a short somewhere and im really upset about these problems and just want them sorted with no headaches.
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Old 03-02-16, 08:08   #7
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Everything suggested is pretty easy to find and fix yourself mate! I'm sure blokes on here will help out just ask questions!
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Old 04-02-16, 20:09   #8
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Hey Deano, thanks for everything. I have decided to book my VL in at the Dyno tuning place and they will look it over and check everything as mentioned in recent posts.

They did their job and I got 275km for a tank and over a quarter left. They said in 2 weeks drop it off and we'll sort it out.

Also some bad news, I plugged in another Mirror moving button on the dash. Its genuine but when I plugged it in it went a bit smokey at the back and well I got a Shoort somewhere. And now my indicators are playing up very weirdly.

Like when I brake my indicators kind of freeze, and when I switch between parking lights and normal lights the flicker of it goes faster when Im off the brake.
So yes my car has many problems.

And also I had the fuel tank fixed ages ago so its not that either.

Thanks again!
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Old 10-02-16, 22:42   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tim747 View Post
Hi simon, do u work for JPS? Is that a car race tuning shop? Do you know how hard this could be for my mechanic to deal with? And the costs of parts and such? Im so desperate to fix this one fault of it eating petrol..,,im about to give up on it. Also theres a short somewhere and im really upset about these problems and just want them sorted with no headaches.
Hi Tim747,
JPS is a business I run that specialises in PCM/ECU recalibration, dyno tuning, consulting services when customers are unsure how to go about modifying the vehicles.
I do alot of onsite work such as trackside DAQ analysis for circuit cars and often help guys get their cars drivable again after changing or installing after market parts. I try to fill in the gaps for customers that other workshops haven't got the bandwidth to fill..

Not sure what skillset your mechanic has but if he has some auto electrical knowledge he should be fine.
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Old 11-02-16, 09:20   #10
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fuel should be a pretty easy one.

i havent read the essay but start by cleaning / inspecting / replacing:

clean and gap sparks
check leads
clean o2 sensor
clean afm (wire gets buggered up from oiled filters (spray some carby cleaner on it))
check temperature (with that low driving time id guess that isn't it)
if you have an adjustable fuel reg wind it back
if its a stock fuel reg I have some na ones you could borrow temporarily. (my spare turbo one is cactus)
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Old 15-02-16, 22:25   #11
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Originally Posted by bachig24u View Post
Hi Tim747,
JPS is a business I run that specialises in PCM/ECU recalibration, dyno tuning, consulting services when customers are unsure how to go about modifying the vehicles.
I do alot of onsite work such as trackside DAQ analysis for circuit cars and often help guys get their cars drivable again after changing or installing after market parts. I try to fill in the gaps for customers that other workshops haven't got the bandwidth to fill..

Not sure what skillset your mechanic has but if he has some auto electrical knowledge he should be fine.

Thats really impressive. Sounds like your super helpful and spot on towards solving problems.

My car is going back to the Dyno tuning shop to further investigate my fuel usage issue.

---------- Post added 15-02-16 at 23:32 ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by SIroller View Post
fuel should be a pretty easy one.

i havent read the essay but start by cleaning / inspecting / replacing:

clean and gap sparks
check leads
clean o2 sensor
clean afm (wire gets buggered up from oiled filters (spray some carby cleaner on it))
check temperature (with that low driving time id guess that isn't it)
if you have an adjustable fuel reg wind it back
if its a stock fuel reg I have some na ones you could borrow temporarily. (my spare turbo one is cactus)
Thanks mate! I shall jot them down for referencing when I take my car in.

I am suspecting it is the fuel reg, pretty interesting to clean the air flow meter that way. Im not so mechanical minded on idle tuning and afm tuning but anyway much appreciate the help and advice.

And the temperature is just warming up when I am a few hundred meters from work sort of thing - theres a few traffic lights before work.

Thanks again!

---------- Post added 15-02-16 at 23:39 ----------

Guys just a quick update.

I popped into Nismo Tuning shop on settlement Road in Thomastown. And the very helpful worker there listened to my story of the VL and its engine swap and such.

Pretty much he said the Nissan geabox can't work in a VL (something about they work on vacuum pressure), I paid for the engine and gearbox from a R31 skyline and I have no engine papers and the receipts don't specify enough and I still may have the vl gearbox and yea I think you get the point.

I will the the Dyno guys to search my engine number as well and further investigate this.

I may have been seriously ripped off and the original engine might have been fine as it was blowing smoke when the mechanic had it, and we just suspected it needed a new head gasket as it was covered in oil and we saw no smoke.

And the gearbox just stuck in limp mode - unable to shifts out of 1st and reverse.

So yea Im pretty worried and may be forced to sell if it costs me a few thousand more to mechanically maintain it.

Last edited by Tim747; 15-02-16 at 22:40.
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Old 18-02-16, 08:31   #12
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see how you go. maybe put it to the side and sww whats what. I have 6 vl gearboxes at the back of my house atm and theyre f.s. for $99 each. so this stuff can be done much cheaper than a mechanic if you do it yourself or source stuff yourself.
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Old 24-02-16, 20:44   #13
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see how you go. maybe put it to the side and sww whats what. I have 6 vl gearboxes at the back of my house atm and theyre f.s. for $99 each. so this stuff can be done much cheaper than a mechanic if you do it yourself or source stuff yourself.
Thnaks mate. I will book the car in some day soon. How the fudge do you have 6 gearboxes just hanging out in your backyard? How do I know the gearboxes will work? Or if anything will be changed to make it work?

Im interested in doing it but only for the speedo problem. I wish I could drive the car with a VL expert to suss out how my VL should be driving and feeling like.
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Old 24-02-16, 22:35   #14
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Before you take the car anywhere try this little trick.

Identify if your airflow meter has been tampered with.
check if the little black cap near the airflow meter housing connector has been removed or broken and small flat blade screwdriver type brass adjustment screw is visible.

if it appears to be tampered with, follow the next few steps to readjust it. If not then jump to step 7.
1. need a multimeter to read resistance which can be bought or borrowed 10 or 15 bucks from electronic shops like **** smith or jaycar electronics.
2. disconnect the cars battery terminal. pick one. + - either is ok.
3. disconnect the airflow meter connector
3. set the multimeter to read ohms up to 2000 or 2k ohms.
4. put the multimeter leads together and check that you get something less than 1.0 on the display. 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 maybe even 0.6 is acceptable depending on how cheap the meter is.
5. seperate the leads now and rub one against the 1st pin and one on the last pin of the airflow meter connector. it doesn't matter which one goes on pin 1 or which one on pin6, black here red there is irrelevant when measuring resitance in ohms.
let us know what you get, and if need be adjust the brass adjustment on air flow meter to achieve 372 ohms or 0.372k ohms or as close as possible. move the screw slowly, it can turn a heap of 360's but never force it as its frickin hard to repair. Also remember to count how many turns you move it in case you need to put it back if it all goes to ****e.
6. put air flow connector back on.to step 8.

step 7. disconnect the cars battery terminal. pick one. + - either is ok.
step 8. disconnect the exhaust oxygen sensor found on the passenger side firewall. its a large grey plug, the sensor sticks in the exhaust stream.
cable tie the loose connector ends somehow so they don't melt on the exhaust as you drive.

step 9. reconnect battery connections and go for a drive.

let us know how it is on fuel after a week of cruising around.
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Old 28-02-16, 08:40   #15
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Had a similar problem with my N/A VL
turned out my rubber induction hoses wernt sealing properly
re sealed them and went from getting 350ks to a tank to 650ks
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Old 05-04-16, 15:23   #16
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Bit of a thread dig I know, but I haven't been on here in quite some time. Did this get sorted?

I had a similar issue 20 years ago with my first N/A auto 6 VL. Chewed fuel, black rear bumper, 250k's per tank. Had it looked at by a few people and no one could help. Tried the usual things, AFM, oxy sensor, blah blah.
Had a rattle that I thought was the heat shield over the cat, turned out the muffler had rusted out internally, so no back pressure, which was causing the car to run rich all the time.
$50 for a 2-1/2" system from a wrecker and within a week I was getting an extra 100-150k's per tank.
something to add to the list of things to look at for anyone that comes across a similar issue with fuel economy.
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Old 06-04-16, 01:24   #17
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Hey everyone, I've finally organised Nismo to address the situation.

Will referance every thing stated here, and amongst other threads, to he boys over there and suss it out.

Very interested to see if cleaning a lot of the enine parts will improve my situation.

Still beilieving its a AFM relataed issue and connecors of some sort - will update if good or bad news!

Thanks again!
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Old 16-06-16, 19:38   #18
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Update - Had Fred from Nismo look at my car for a day. Said we will organise a day to clean everything and go voer it and service and what not.

Have not been able to organise a date though. Been busy and I purchased PAcemaker Extractors Which he will fit when I take it in. I am spraying them with VHT paint.

Hope he fixes it. Have researched if the cluster doesn't give a proper reading if it has a effect on the car. Stranegly lucky I am sort of right with evidence from other owners on this website saying over drive gear started working and the PWR button working great when the cluster is repaired slightly and working right.

I say again it was dyno'd and everything last year and gave me 3 weeks of driving near 300km and then had to fill up because petrol was cheap. Had more thna ahlf a tank left. And then it started slowly getting back to bad.
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Old 17-06-16, 10:47   #19
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Hope you sort it out Champion. Had a smiliar issue where my Afm and fuel regulator were both stuffed. I'd fill the car up and 20 minutes later i'd be out of fuel. It's scary how much fuel can disappear when things go wrong in a VL lol
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Old 20-06-16, 23:33   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bachig24u View Post
Before you take the car anywhere try this little trick.

Identify if your airflow meter has been tampered with.
check if the little black cap near the airflow meter housing connector has been removed or broken and small flat blade screwdriver type brass adjustment screw is visible.

if it appears to be tampered with, follow the next few steps to readjust it. If not then jump to step 7.
1. need a multimeter to read resistance which can be bought or borrowed 10 or 15 bucks from electronic shops like **** smith or jaycar electronics.
2. disconnect the cars battery terminal. pick one. + - either is ok.
3. disconnect the airflow meter connector
3. set the multimeter to read ohms up to 2000 or 2k ohms.
4. put the multimeter leads together and check that you get something less than 1.0 on the display. 0.3, 0.4, 0.5 maybe even 0.6 is acceptable depending on how cheap the meter is.
5. seperate the leads now and rub one against the 1st pin and one on the last pin of the airflow meter connector. it doesn't matter which one goes on pin 1 or which one on pin6, black here red there is irrelevant when measuring resitance in ohms.
let us know what you get, and if need be adjust the brass adjustment on air flow meter to achieve 372 ohms or 0.372k ohms or as close as possible. move the screw slowly, it can turn a heap of 360's but never force it as its frickin hard to repair. Also remember to count how many turns you move it in case you need to put it back if it all goes to ****e.
6. put air flow connector back on.to step 8.

step 7. disconnect the cars battery terminal. pick one. + - either is ok.
step 8. disconnect the exhaust oxygen sensor found on the passenger side firewall. its a large grey plug, the sensor sticks in the exhaust stream.
cable tie the loose connector ends somehow so they don't melt on the exhaust as you drive.

step 9. reconnect battery connections and go for a drive.

let us know how it is on fuel after a week of cruising around.
Hey man. Just revisiting my thread/post. Im pretty sure my gearbox being a r31 box needs its speedo gear part thingy changed to a VL one so the cluster reads right and overdrive works. Overdrive only kick on when im going down a hill and after a few minutes on the highway.

My car has many reasons why the fuel is bad. Hopefully when its sent to Nismo they clean it up, service, and re configure evrything to work well.

Its beeen dyno'd and tuned and oxy sensor chnaged, that worked good for one petrol fill up then went bad to how it was.

I may adjust the AFM sometime soon. But am not mechanical minded and do not wanna make it worse which is most likely.
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