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Old 26-06-11, 21:14   #1
ledouche
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How to install a walbro intank fuel pump

ok this thread is to help anyone who is about to install a walbro intank pump or wants a ruff idea on how hard it is to modify to fit one i used a walbro gss342.

CAUTION TO ALL:
1: avoid using heat near anything as petrol or petrol vapours dnt mix with heat.
2: dnt leave un exposed wires as this sits in the petrol tank and dnt want any kind of spark also i didnt like the idea of live wires in petrol but this is how it is from factory and was told to run pump wires how i set it up.
3: only use hose that is rated for fuel wen replacing hoses as some types of other hose may not be up to job and will fall apart and fail wen u dnt want them to.

step 1:
removal of fuel tank.

firstly you have to remove fuel tank as you will want to replace any fuel lines that have disintegrated as mine were.
1: I recommend reading the vl handbook to remove fuel tank. or if u dont want to de-pressurise fuel system by removing fuel pump relay till car stalls.
2: disconnect negative battery terminal.
3: raise rear of vehicle and place on chassis stands.
4: drain any fuel from fuel tank using a siphon.
5: disconnect wiring from sender unit and remove external fuel pump bracket so it doesn't get in way ( might not have to but i did anyway.)
6: take rear right wheel off and remove stone guard and disconnect any hoses u find.
7: support fuel tank and remove bolts connected to straps and then remove straps them self.
8: lower fuel tank slightly then somehow remove the filler cap grommet (i pushed it out from inside) then lower fuel tank more and poke filler tube through body and disconnect fuel lines on top of fuel tank.
9: lower the fuel tank to floor ( 2 people will make this easier as i did it by myself).
10: clean tank if u feel up to it but make sure seal off or fuel lines going into petrol tank as u DNT want water inside the tank.

step 2:
remove fuel sender unit

1: disconnect wiring if u haven't already done.
2: undo 5 bolts which are located on the gold plated sender unit.
3: manoeuvre the sender unit and intank fuel pump out remembering the way it sits installed.
4: once you have the sender unit in your hands remove the strainer from the pump pick up, also cut the black and red wires so u still have enough wires to attach to new wiring harness and then old intank pump should just pull out of position.

step 3:
install walbro

1: remove walbro from packaging and attach filter as direction provided with new pump.
2: sit walbro ruffly how picture shows and mark 2 lines where u will need to cut to allow filter to side into place.


3: next cut gold pipe where the fuel hose connects to the top of the pump so the new pump will fit nicely as shown below.


4: get a piece of fuel hose ans slice up the middle and fit as shown below to stop metal casing touching gold pipe. dnt want gold pipe to touch metal casing at all!


5: cut wires to size and then strip and connect together using connectors included with pump, then connect plug.


6: cable tie pump in place to avoid any movement and then do up hose clamps as shown. also not to sure about using zip ties as im not sure if they will melt or dissolve over time from the petrol so instead use metal hose clamps but make sure the gold hose has the insulation on it so there r no shorts with electrics


step 4:
re-install sender unit

1: re-install sender unit the same way u took it out and replace seal so there will be no leaks. holden part number for cork gasket is gm-92033340



2:then re-install fuel tank which is reversal to removal, and plug all wires back in.


2 pictures to compare first is original sender unit and fuel pump and 2nd is walbro

og sender


walbro




this is the process i used, hopes this helps anyone about to do it although it really isn't difficult and leave your self a good day just to be sure u complete it.
If i've left anything out please feel free to add to this.

Last edited by ledouche; 27-06-11 at 19:14.
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Old 26-06-11, 21:50   #2
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Good write up man! Pictures are always helpful
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Old 26-06-11, 22:00   #3
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cheers just though it would help anyone doing it and to give them an idea on what needs to be done and would of taken assembly pics but couldnt be bothered taking it apart again but i think the point gets across
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Old 26-06-11, 22:02   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ledouche View Post
cheers just though it would help anyone doing it and to give them an idea on what needs to be done and would of taken assembly pics but couldnt be bothered taking it apart again but i think the point gets across
Now you just need to take it for a spin and find out if that was the problem! I'm finding it really hard to find an intank to buy secondhand
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Old 26-06-11, 22:14   #5
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yeh i thought about another standard one new but was gonna cost about as much as walbro so figured do it once do it right cause i dnt plan on ever taking tank out again didnt cost much honestly compared to alot of other things that r next on list
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Old 26-06-11, 22:18   #6
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just keep in mind if you buy the pumps over 6bar you may find the injectors will start to leak with the extra pressure in them.

an adjustable reg is one way out, the other a new fuel rail and injectors, a tune, a bigger turbo, some headwork, new valve springs, new cam etc... it all starts with a leak.
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Old 26-06-11, 22:29   #7
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well atm moment my set up goes walbro to surge tank and just normal external pump running off surge tank till i get 044 (it all takes time) and wouldnt if anything the walbro just fill surge tank and overflow back to tank instead? correct me if im wrong, as im using this pump just to keep surge tank from draining wen i put 044 on any info will help cheers

Last edited by ledouche; 26-06-11 at 23:32.
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Old 26-06-11, 22:34   #8
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good writeup man, i would use enviro splices on those wires tho
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Old 26-06-11, 22:37   #9
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yeh i know but thats how the standard tank is check the og pic atleast mine are now covered compared to standard and spoke to owner at gas motorsport he said thats how u have to run them as i dnt like the idea of live wires in petrol but honestly the factory setups is alot wurse no insulation around them at all and alot of commos are like this set up
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Old 26-06-11, 22:38   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Psi_Wagon View Post
good writeup man, i would use enviro splices on those wires tho
Shrinkwrap?
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Old 26-06-11, 22:40   #11
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i didnt want to use shink wrap as u need heat and that has has been baking in petrol fumes for 26yrs im sure u could but i avoided any sort of heat just in case, and not sure how shrink wrap would go with petrol eg dissolve it
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Old 26-06-11, 23:12   #12
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I wondered the same with Zipties... in petrol over time??? not sure if they would "melt" or not. I used metal hose clamps instead.
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Old 26-06-11, 23:14   #13
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yeh good point but ive seen a few with zip ties so figured they would be fine have to look into it and might change it to hose clamps to be safe.
cheers insane vl edited will change pic tomoz as well im gonna go for metal hose clamps good idea.

Last edited by ledouche; 26-06-11 at 23:18.
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Old 27-06-11, 00:23   #14
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just in time, my walbro rocked up the other day
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Old 08-07-11, 23:49   #15
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awesome right up, dude!!
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Old 01-08-11, 11:45   #16
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Yeah wouldnt recommend using zip ties, if anything just use stainless lockwire.
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Old 01-11-11, 18:10   #17
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anyone know what amps the walbro 255hp draws in regard to the stock pump.

would any of the wiring need upgrading, like what most people do when they fit an 044 pump.
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Old 02-11-11, 10:58   #18
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also if anyone cant find vl fuel tank gaskets, vs ones arnt obsolete yet and they are exactly the same
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Old 02-11-11, 11:01   #19
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When I got my walbro it came with a rubber sleeve which goes over the pump (so didn't need to put a piece of hose over the pipe as in the 3rd pic). It also came with zip ties for mounting, although a friend of mine gave me a couple of fatter ones to put around it and he said they would be fine sitting in petrol. Considering the pump also came with a pre-wired plug, I just extended these wires and put new spades on them (at the end where they join to the flange of the pickup unit), and also used the same gauge wire from the white plug (external) to the new relays.

Can't remember the current draw of the Walbro, but I've used the old fuel pump wires (black and purple) to switch 2 relays, 1 for my 044 with a 30Amp fuse, and 1 for my Walbro with a 15Amp fuse from memory.

I used 8AWG power for the 044 (slightly overkill!) and I think 2.5 sq mm for the Walbro
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Old 03-11-11, 22:29   #20
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Cool write-up cuz.
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Old 04-11-11, 15:31   #21
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Hey just letting people know I followed this guide recently but instead of a Walbro I used a Pierburg 810, didn't have to cut any pipes or bracket for it to fit. Thanks
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Old 03-12-12, 08:44   #22
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just curious as to what the point of using the rubber hose as insulation on the sender pipe is when the bottom of the pump is butted against the metal bracket which attaches to the sender pipe?
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Old 13-10-13, 16:32   #23
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Does anyone know the part number for the upgraded pump?
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Old 13-10-13, 21:52   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fresh_VL View Post
just curious as to what the point of using the rubber hose as insulation on the sender pipe is when the bottom of the pump is butted against the metal bracket which attaches to the sender pipe?
the bottom of the pump is plastic so no metal touches

---------- Post added 13-10-13 at 21:53 ----------

and the part number is at the top its a walbro gss342
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Old 04-11-13, 18:24   #25
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Cheers ledouche ordered one and will hopefully fit it this weekend
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