View Full Version : High Energy Sumps


PVL-747
19-11-05, 08:25
I've just bought a VL355 and it has a custom sump on it (made at Jack Bros), the metal they used is not the best. I can see it cracking quite easily as it's a quite thin metal.

Are the High Energy Sumps the way to go?

Wheres the cheapest place to purchase one from?

Or does someone have one for sale?

Thanks

Aaron.

duz360
19-11-05, 08:31
buy from hi energy direct. they arent cheap though.

how thick is the material on yours?
i just made my own using 1.6mm sheet and it is very strong

exec5ltrvl
19-11-05, 10:17
High energy is a decent product , ive got one on my VL track car ( the base model pan) and the oil surge is kept under control . You have to give them the details of what stroker is in your engine as this will effect the crank scrappers and the like.

adam

Sinister
19-11-05, 12:23
they seem good but id be more inclined to go with a haddad sump, its a sump company of theirs called russel oil pans im pretty sure?? never heard a bad thing about them and ~ the same price as high energy.

dvl
01-01-06, 18:03
is it necesary to fit a high energy sump on a 304ci for doing burnouts or is the standard one up to the job? just dont want it to run dry

spasm
01-01-06, 18:12
they seem good but id be more inclined to go with a haddad sump, its a sump company of theirs called russel oil pans im pretty sure?? never heard a bad thing about them and ~ the same price as high energy.


Ive had both and i wouldnt buy a russell pan ever again.

If you do a bit of hunting you should be able to get an eliminator pan for under 300..

If you intend on doing burnouts in a holden v8, may i suggest 2 things. 1 restrictors in the pushrods to stop oil filling the rocker covers, and 2nd, a big inch breather hole on the top of each rocker cover with filter or vented to a catch can - with a filter. Oil drainage is far too slow in a holden engine

Sinister
02-01-06, 10:17
what was the bad experience with the russell spasm ???

spasm
02-01-06, 10:23
sinister. the russel pan had no gates to stop under brake oil surges, aend the crank scraper hit my crank, i needed to mod it myself, and the overall build quality was poor in comparison.

Hence the reason i used a HE ump on this combo

PVL-747
05-01-06, 13:44
just looking on VPW, an ELIMINATOR pan in $420.42 or there is the PRO-ELIMINATOR pan which is $620!! which one are you guys using?

spasm
05-01-06, 14:53
im using eliminator with a gate i think it was $240 from autobarn exchange.


if it has a hi volume sump now, why are you changing it?

PVL-747
05-01-06, 23:18
it has a crack about 60mm long in the bottom of the sump which i had welded up for free but it looks to have split again. The guy who welded it said it's a crap sump and that it will continue to crack because they have used sh!t material.

NVIOUS
05-01-06, 23:39
i use a high energy eliminator sump as well, fitted & works perfect. I paid $300 brand new from a local performance shop.

Sinister
06-01-06, 09:34
if moneys no object, dont use a holden motor...
go a chev 4bolt block and do a 350 :) p arts are basically half the price.

spasm
06-01-06, 13:18
chev? pffft..... give me a 355 holden engine over a chev anyday....

bottom end may be cheaper.... start talking heads.... well... lets see a factory set of chev heads keep up with vn's.... apart from the new ls1 series

Sinister
06-01-06, 15:38
chev? pffft..... give me a 355 holden engine over a chev anyday....

bottom end may be cheaper.... start talking heads.... well... lets see a factory set of chev heads keep up with vn's.... apart from the new ls1 series
dunno how i posted that in this sump section??? but anyway i disagree!!
maybe for n/a.... for boost, heads dont matter as much, and u can get alloy chev heads for like half the price of holdens anyway.... besides heads, talk about manifolds, cranks, rods, pistons and basically any other part.. chev is untouchable

spasm
06-01-06, 16:54
untouchable... ls1's still cant catch holden v8's

spasm
06-01-06, 16:56
rods/pistons? dude, my whole engine is all of the shelf chev stuff, bar the crank. eagle 5.7 rods, srp 383 chev pistons....

my short, stroker, 5.7 hbeams, forged srp pistons, main studded, balanced, romac balancer, roll master timing set, roller cammed, o-ringed, all machined didnt even cost me 4k! (i assembled tho) wont save much on a chev, apart from about 500 on a crank.. woohooo!

Sinister
06-01-06, 17:41
true u can use lots of chev parts in the holden stroker anyway but not all... things like a roller cam, half price for a chev roller... then with chev u can buy off the shelf cheap mechanical roller lifters and all, holden u are limited.. and unless its a group A block or one of the rare other variants its only a 2 bolt block.
Then theres stroking, $1500 to get a 383 crank for holden, 5.7L is stock chev, 383 crank forged (scat) like $600 for the chev!
LS1's are a different market im talking small blocks here, tho the ls1 will catch up easily if not already is

Sinister
06-01-06, 17:44
at the end of the day the price it costs to convert a holden to accept the chev engine puts the holden motor option ahead anyway but i was talking the "money no object" option
(just saying the motors are far better)

spasm
06-01-06, 17:59
better? hmm, i'll disagree..

my roller setup cost me $290 to regrind and nitride stock cam, and $170 for a set of brand new hydrualic lifters..